After 3 fails its time to ask where i go wrong..


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jeffrey bres
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As mentioned..   3x not a charm here.

I have this isseu every time.
Clearcoating without gelcoat would be an option. But allso that isnt easy with small holes like this.

Now i used gelcoat. Hoping it would help.

Gel had cured at 25 degrees for 5 hours was dry to touch.

I used 3m high tack clear spray adheasive to hold the fibers in place. (AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE)


on the vacuum catch pot the dail says my vacuum is 100%
I leace the pump running over night.  In the morning when the resin is hardned the vacuum line form the ez composite starter kit to the pot is flat from the vac. 

(I dont have an official cacuum pump.  I use a 35l/m fridge pump. Whitch seems to work fine.   I can add an extra pump if i need more cfm...)
If my vac is to strong.. i can make a bleedvalve to reduce vacuum.   

But idialy i would love to have a perfect finish.

I use easy lease release agent..  denoulding is a breeze..




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Hanaldo
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The bubbles in those last 2 pictures are not a problem. They will be due to what appears to be a slight amount of bridging, which is where trapped air liked to collect. What is an issue is when you get air leaking in that creates pattern in the flow mesh that look sort of like trees. This indicates a big leak.

Re. glass strand in seal of catchpot, yes this is enough to be a leak. Same with strands of carbon or glass or peel ply caught under the vacuum bagging tape. Sealing surfaces need to be very very clean.

The types of leaks that will cause you dramas are not audible, you can't hear them. The ones you can hear hissing are massive leaks, and are very obvious and easy to find. Generally you can't even hear the small ones with ultrasonic leak detectors, they are absolutely minute - and yet enough to ruin your infusion.

Again, ignore the gauge - it isn't accurate enough to pay any attention to what it says. If the bubbles you are getting in those last 2 photos are your only concern this time, then they are nothing to worry about. If you dont get any more air than that before the resin cures, the part should turn out well. If it does not, then it is likely to be another issue which, as Chris suggested, could be infusion speed, resin viscosity etc. But my first impression of looking at your first photos is you had a big leak. So hopefully this one turns out better.
jeffrey bres
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Hanaldo - 4/13/2021 9:38:44 AM
The bubbles in those last 2 pictures are not a problem. They will be due to what appears to be a slight amount of bridging, which is where trapped air liked to collect. What is an issue is when you get air leaking in that creates pattern in the flow mesh that look sort of like trees. This indicates a big leak.

Re. glass strand in seal of catchpot, yes this is enough to be a leak. Same with strands of carbon or glass or peel ply caught under the vacuum bagging tape. Sealing surfaces need to be very very clean.

The types of leaks that will cause you dramas are not audible, you can't hear them. The ones you can hear hissing are massive leaks, and are very obvious and easy to find. Generally you can't even hear the small ones with ultrasonic leak detectors, they are absolutely minute - and yet enough to ruin your infusion.

Again, ignore the gauge - it isn't accurate enough to pay any attention to what it says. If the bubbles you are getting in those last 2 photos are your only concern this time, then they are nothing to worry about. If you dont get any more air than that before the resin cures, the part should turn out well. If it does not, then it is likely to be another issue which, as Chris suggested, could be infusion speed, resin viscosity etc. But my first impression of looking at your first photos is you had a big leak. So hopefully this one turns out better.

Learning can only be done by doing.   I pay a lot of attention to detail and work the bag larger oversized. And try to make sure i dont have any leaks.    The last infusion i gave it more resin. And vacuumed it back again a little with a few vacuum pauses to give it plenty time to soak..   its only 1x 210 carbon 1x 280 glass and 1x 200 glass.
Nothing special i would think.

Hand layup is working out superb for ne but takes a lot more time to do..   so i thought il try infusion.

In my oppinion. A boat looks simple. But its (again in my opinion) quite a complex shape with all the small corners...
Usualy i would fill the sharp edges first with carbon roving and thick paste.  But now im trying to infuse it directly.

I might be better off putting some roving in the corners first. To give less sharp edges to the fabric

Edited 4 Years Ago by jeffrey bres
jeffrey bres
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Hanaldo - 4/13/2021 9:38:44 AM
The bubbles in those last 2 pictures are not a problem. They will be due to what appears to be a slight amount of bridging, which is where trapped air liked to collect.

100 point sir.


It was indeed bridging.  Beween gel and the first layer.

A few points that was.   And unfortunantly they didnt fill up. And there it cracked unrepairible (to sell).
Is it helping to place the miuld vertical? And feed at the bottom? I dont know.   Just thinking out loud...



So. I learned again.

Any tips on getting bridging out of my picture?
Or at least avoiding the air trap?     Must i slow down on the resin feed or do i have to put something in the corner or both.    I am sertainly going down to a 6mm resin line instaid of 10. To slow down the resin imput. And make sure it takes longer to infuse. 

Idealy i dont want anything to be visible in the shaper corners exept carbon.. Now im trying it but it would be nice to acutaly doing it.

How can i avoid the faults i created.  I had a perfect vacuum. Im sure. No leaks.    No white bubble finish this time. 

Edited 4 Years Ago by jeffrey bres
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