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K.C.C
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 54,
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+x+x+x This was the EL160 infusion experiment. A couple of little areas broke away when demoulding but I didn't give it a bit of time in the oven. After the post cure the surface went a bit funky which I think was down to the fusion fix. seatcover BMW S1000RR :p Maybe I make these ones 
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benji82
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 14,
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+x+xThis was the EL160 infusion experiment. A couple of little areas broke away when demoulding but I didn't give it a bit of time in the oven. After the post cure the surface went a bit funky which I think was down to the fusion fix. seatcover BMW S1000RR :p Maybe
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K.C.C
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 54,
Visits: 117
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+xThis was the EL160 infusion experiment. A couple of little areas broke away when demoulding but I didn't give it a bit of time in the oven. After the post cure the surface went a bit funky which I think was down to the fusion fix. seatcover BMW S1000RR :p But this looks really nice !
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benji82
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 14,
Visits: 213
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This was the EL160 infusion experiment. A couple of little areas broke away when demoulding but I didn't give it a bit of time in the oven. After the post cure the surface went a bit funky which I think was down to the fusion fix.
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K.C.C
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 54,
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+x+x+xI have made a few moulds with this system and use them repeatedly in my autoclave. I ended up putting one gel down then going on with the full layup and then vac bagging. With the gel, I kept an eye on it and waited until it didn't come off on a gloved finger but still quite soft. My theory was that the wetter the gel, the better the bond between that and the resin. I warmed it up and put it down in a hot room which made thing easier. With it only being one gel, the carbon was just about visible but they seem to perform pretty well. Also, a rep from a resin company told me to give the mould a bit of heat before demoulding just to take the brittleness away. I gave it 60°c for 4-5 hours. All my moulds have been laid up with carbon but would like to experiment with chopped strand glass. I did buy some powder bound glass but the epoxy didn't break the binder down AT All! I'm wondering if I got sent some emulsion bound by mistake. I hope there might be something useful in there for someone. like you said but I had the second gelcoat down when it wouldn't stick to the glove when touching lightly when putting some pressure I could get the gel to stick to my gloves even pull it off the part . Like on the tech info of EG160 High Temp Epoxy Tooling Gelcoat I wait no longer tahn 1H30min for secont layer of gel I just demoulded a new part with 2 layers gelcoat , even trimmed it before demoulding no problems anymore but the part was laying for 5 days in a room that was 20°C Chopped strand galss just wont work no powder or no emulsion I see ppl do it on parts that are almost flat sheets but on complex parts it wont work simple as that Powder is special made to wet it out with resin and when wet placing the layers in ex swimming pools . For big flat parts its great to work with, its fast and little more stiff than emulsion bound . On complex parts emuslion every time . And on Epoxy parts Woven Glass Cloth , carbon cloth or epoxy moulding paste. Yeah, this is what I was finding but worrying that it was just me. Also, my moulds have gone a bit brown. I haven't had any problems with this and I'm just putting it down to the temperature cycles. Even high temp prepreg F1 moulds brown a bit after a lot of use or seeing high temp. I think its just an epoxy thing. I have also used the EL160 to infuse a mould. It seemed to work perfectly until I post cured it. I don't think the fusion fix spray likes the heat. At some point in the future I would like to try using the gel coat again. I can wait until it goes tacky and then use this to position the dry carbon. Thats the problem with my moulds they are 90% moulds with up to 5 splits 1 part moulds vacuum or infusion would make it that much more simple .
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benji82
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 14,
Visits: 213
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+x+xI have made a few moulds with this system and use them repeatedly in my autoclave. I ended up putting one gel down then going on with the full layup and then vac bagging. With the gel, I kept an eye on it and waited until it didn't come off on a gloved finger but still quite soft. My theory was that the wetter the gel, the better the bond between that and the resin. I warmed it up and put it down in a hot room which made thing easier. With it only being one gel, the carbon was just about visible but they seem to perform pretty well. Also, a rep from a resin company told me to give the mould a bit of heat before demoulding just to take the brittleness away. I gave it 60°c for 4-5 hours. All my moulds have been laid up with carbon but would like to experiment with chopped strand glass. I did buy some powder bound glass but the epoxy didn't break the binder down AT All! I'm wondering if I got sent some emulsion bound by mistake. I hope there might be something useful in there for someone. like you said but I had the second gelcoat down when it wouldn't stick to the glove when touching lightly when putting some pressure I could get the gel to stick to my gloves even pull it off the part . Like on the tech info of EG160 High Temp Epoxy Tooling Gelcoat I wait no longer tahn 1H30min for secont layer of gel I just demoulded a new part with 2 layers gelcoat , even trimmed it before demoulding no problems anymore but the part was laying for 5 days in a room that was 20°C Chopped strand galss just wont work no powder or no emulsion I see ppl do it on parts that are almost flat sheets but on complex parts it wont work simple as that Powder is special made to wet it out with resin and when wet placing the layers in ex swimming pools . For big flat parts its great to work with, its fast and little more stiff than emulsion bound . On complex parts emuslion every time . And on Epoxy parts Woven Glass Cloth , carbon cloth or epoxy moulding paste. Yeah, this is what I was finding but worrying that it was just me. Also, my moulds have gone a bit brown. I haven't had any problems with this and I'm just putting it down to the temperature cycles. Even high temp prepreg F1 moulds brown a bit after a lot of use or seeing high temp. I think its just an epoxy thing. I have also used the EL160 to infuse a mould. It seemed to work perfectly until I post cured it. I don't think the fusion fix spray likes the heat. At some point in the future I would like to try using the gel coat again. I can wait until it goes tacky and then use this to position the dry carbon.
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K.C.C
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 54,
Visits: 117
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+xI have made a few moulds with this system and use them repeatedly in my autoclave. I ended up putting one gel down then going on with the full layup and then vac bagging. With the gel, I kept an eye on it and waited until it didn't come off on a gloved finger but still quite soft. My theory was that the wetter the gel, the better the bond between that and the resin. I warmed it up and put it down in a hot room which made thing easier. With it only being one gel, the carbon was just about visible but they seem to perform pretty well. Also, a rep from a resin company told me to give the mould a bit of heat before demoulding just to take the brittleness away. I gave it 60°c for 4-5 hours. All my moulds have been laid up with carbon but would like to experiment with chopped strand glass. I did buy some powder bound glass but the epoxy didn't break the binder down AT All! I'm wondering if I got sent some emulsion bound by mistake. I hope there might be something useful in there for someone. like you said but I had the second gelcoat down when it wouldn't stick to the glove when touching lightly when putting some pressure I could get the gel to stick to my gloves even pull it off the part . Like on the tech info of EG160 High Temp Epoxy Tooling Gelcoat I wait no longer tahn 1H30min for secont layer of gel I just demoulded a new part with 2 layers gelcoat , even trimmed it before demoulding no problems anymore but the part was laying for 5 days in a room that was 20°C Chopped strand galss just wont work no powder or no emulsion I see ppl do it on parts that are almost flat sheets but on complex parts it wont work simple as that Powder is special made to wet it out with resin and when wet placing the layers in ex swimming pools . For big flat parts its great to work with, its fast and little more stiff than emulsion bound . On complex parts emuslion every time . And on Epoxy parts Woven Glass Cloth , carbon cloth or epoxy moulding paste.
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benji82
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 14,
Visits: 213
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I have made a few moulds with this system and use them repeatedly in my autoclave. I ended up putting one gel down then going on with the full layup and then vac bagging. With the gel, I kept an eye on it and waited until it didn't come off on a gloved finger but still quite soft. My theory was that the wetter the gel, the better the bond between that and the resin. I warmed it up and put it down in a hot room which made thing easier. With it only being one gel, the carbon was just about visible but they seem to perform pretty well. Also, a rep from a resin company told me to give the mould a bit of heat before demoulding just to take the brittleness away. I gave it 60°c for 4-5 hours.
All my moulds have been laid up with carbon but would like to experiment with chopped strand glass. I did buy some powder bound glass but the epoxy didn't break the binder down AT All! I'm wondering if I got sent some emulsion bound by mistake.
I hope there might be something useful in there for someone.
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K.C.C
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 54,
Visits: 117
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+x+xStarted with some smaler moulds again today . ad some small high temp epoxy moulds made before and they had no problem and I remember I only used 1 layer gelcoat How are you getting on now? I hate this system! So many delamination and cracks. I literally can't make moulds using 2 layers of gel or it will crack, chip and delaminat iv tried applying the 2nd layer of gel with every different stage of tack. Now I make just using 1 layer of gel. Moulds are better but still after 6 pulls I got a hair line crack. All my moulds are small like 8 inch. I fear if I make a large moulds it will just break! And I'm having to make them really thick using several layers 650g carbon for backing. Let me know if you have a solution. Thanks I kept working with 1 layer gel but I do wait 4 to 5 days before demoulding and atleast 7 days before postcuring I'm now testing 2 layers of gel again reducing the time between the layers and at first sight this looks good . Problem also is that when you work with parts that have verry small edges that need to be trim off you need to look out not putting the gel to thin on there Differend thickness of gell, difference in curing. I use first 2 layers of 200G twill 2X2 let this gell up for some time than I add 2 layers 400G twill 2X2 ending with last layer of 200G twill 2X2. And than let it cure for 4 to 5 days. I finished 2 new moulds this week with 2 layers gel , wil keep you posted the results
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carbon man
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Group: Awaiting Activation
Posts: 86,
Visits: 1.2K
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+xStarted with some smaler moulds again today . ad some small high temp epoxy moulds made before and they had no problem and I remember I only used 1 layer gelcoat How are you getting on now? I hate this system! So many delamination and cracks. I literally can't make moulds using 2 layers of gel or it will crack, chip and delaminat iv tried applying the 2nd layer of gel with every different stage of tack. Now I make just using 1 layer of gel. Moulds are better but still after 6 pulls I got a hair line crack. All my moulds are small like 8 inch. I fear if I make a large moulds it will just break! And I'm having to make them really thick using several layers 650g carbon for backing. Let me know if you have a solution. Thanks
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