My version of a Philips Hue Signe floor light


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David Grant
David Grant
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David Grant - 4/27/2020 2:46:11 PM
David Grant - 4/27/2020 12:53:56 PM
Warren (Staff) - 4/27/2020 12:09:47 PM
PVA would be a super safe option if applied evenly.  However it will likely leave surface marring that needs polishing out.  Alternatively 5 or 6 coats of mould release wax should have no issues but leave a better finish.

What was happening? did the solvents attack/etch the surface?

The tube became dirty inside the bore (my bad) and I used Easy-Lease Mould Cleaner, things didn't look right after that. Once I used the Easy-Lease Chemical Release Agent the tube became brittle and cracks started forming, only had to tap it and it shattered. Tube on back order so project on hold at mo.

Whilst I'm here Warren, I did a pigment test to the exact dimensions of the final cast (width/depth but only 75mm long) and added one drop of the CULR Epoxy Pigment White to 25g of epoxy, so less than stated.
The test came out great and the led light will pass through - however even with the lights on full brightness it only passes through three quarters of the length of the test piece. So I will have to go for a clear cast when I was trying to achieve a frosted look. I can't take a photo to demonstrate as I've already cut the cable on leds but hope this makes sense.

Warren, would just like to clarify the release wax option, it says (Suitable Uses) that it is not suitable for high temperature applications such as elevated temperature cure, pre-preg or wet-lay where exotherm in the part is likely to take the mould surface over 50°C. On my first post you said "The above advice with the fan may help keep the exotherm down a bit. Typically I would expect to see around 60C during the cure - more if the exotherm begins to run away a bit."

So can I still use the wax or should I go for the PVA?


Sorry need to add more as wish to get order in asap - looking at other suppliers they are saying...

"
Stoner Miracle Gloss M-08 Maximum Mold Release Wax was the GRP industries first paste release wax and is still the most widely used, due to it's excellent performance. Can withstand exotherm of up to 120 C."

Warren (Staff)
Warren (Staff)
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The mould release wax is designed for room temperature curing. There is a massive difference between briefly experiencing a high temperature during an exotherm and long term during an elevated temperature cure. Certainly 121C would be a massive exotherm on a product like GlassCast 50 and in its own right might ruin the resin, let alone the issues of releasing. In your case, it is the centre of the resin that will get the hottest. As long as you pour it within the recommended limits, I don’t see any reason why the wax would not be fine. I would avoid PVA anyway as it leaves surface marring. 

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
David Grant
David Grant
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Well tube arrived today and I have now poured the epoxy resin - a bit worried about micro bubbles. Think I might have rushed the pour without letting the resin settle a bit first.
So I'm going to be brave and leave for a full seven days before I attempt to de-mould.
Seven days and it's my birthday ;o) I might be a bit to rat-faced that day Rolleyes


Warren (Staff)
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Hope it goes well for the tube and your Birthday! 

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
David Grant
David Grant
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Hi all, just wanted to update you on my project with some photos and my trials and tribulations, but before I do I would like to give a big shout out to Easy Composite for all their help with this project which looking back was a bit ambitious for a noob with epoxy resin.

I think I mixed the resin to aggressively and didn't let it settle before I pour into tube and ended up with micro-bubbles which could not escape - how ever it turned out kinda cool once set. The resin did drop around and inch which I really didn't anticipate and had a knock on in the base.



Once I demoulded which took a careful six hours I sanded and sanded and got to a point where I was happy with the look, I then bonded on the beech top to the upright and let that set. All good and I offered up the upright to the base for rewiring of the Philips Hue LED controller to the light-strip.



Wiring was a bit temperamental and need to practice my soldering skills (I used to be a welder fabricator) but once wired up it was hallelujah and worked with my Hue lighting and Alexa.



It was now time to bond the upright into the base but here I had a problem, when I bored out the base for the upright I had enough lenght going through the upright to not bend the LED, however as with the above issue of the resin drop there was more LED to put inside the base which meant when I bonded it I had to fold the LED slightly to go down the bore. All seemed ok and I went ahead with bonding. Once set I turned on the LED and I had a short - which I can't resolve now as bonded. The light-strip still works and depending on colour selection I either get full colour along all the light-strip or as below.



I'm in the final stages now and once fully complete I will update post and let you all see my first ever epoxy resin project.

Warren (Staff)
Warren (Staff)
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Still looks pretty cool even with the bubbles.  Were you around 20C?  Temperature can greatly effect the viscosity and how much air is trapped in mixing.

A project like this where the bubbles can't escape might benefit from degassing the resin before pouring and then just pour as carefully as possible to avoid trapping air then.  An open topped mould, you could have easily run a heat gun over the surface leaving the resin bubble free.

Still looks pretty damn cool.

Soldering takes a bit of practice - plenty of good videos on youtube on basic soldering that should help you avoid a dry/bad joint.

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
David Grant
David Grant
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Warren (Staff) - 5/14/2020 1:56:07 PM
Still looks pretty cool even with the bubbles.  Were you around 20C?  Temperature can greatly effect the viscosity and how much air is trapped in mixing.

A project like this where the bubbles can't escape might benefit from degassing the resin before pouring and then just pour as carefully as possible to avoid trapping air then.  An open topped mould, you could have easily run a heat gun over the surface leaving the resin bubble free.

Still looks pretty damn cool.

Soldering takes a bit of practice - plenty of good videos on youtube on basic soldering that should help you avoid a dry/bad joint.

Yes at 20c, and used air gun. Not to worried and like it.
I'm done - Hooray
Trying to write up about the who process and do a video of it finished, so will post when all done.

Warren (Staff)
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Post a link on here when it's done as it might be useful to other Forum Members.   If you want, you could email us some finished "posed" in situ photos and we could look into putting them in the gallery we are creating for the website.  Its a different kind of clear casting project to the typical tables and worktops. 

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
David Grant
David Grant
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This is my closing statement for this project

But first watch my short video on the finished product Epoxy Resin and Beech LED Floor Lamp
============================================================================
When thinking about technology from our past and the future, I find it very inspirational and wonder what advancements are to come. Being born in 1965 it would be a good 25 years before technology truly began to influence my life. Fast forward to 2020, and technology has many manifestations and is integrated into our everyday life from work, rest and play. I embrace, whilst others shy away.

Having several Philips Hue products, I was looking to buy the Philips Hue White and Colour Ambiance Signe LED Floor Lamp. This was my "light bulb" moment (to coin a phrase) and studying the floor lamp the two main parts are the base which house the controller unit and add balance to the lamp, and the upright tube that houses the LEDs.

Thinking about what medium I could use to make this, I turned to wood and epoxy resin. Whilst having a limited skill set in woodworking, I had no knowledge of using epoxy resin but was not deterred. Finding several reference images only showing part dimensions, I was able to scale up and had a good idea of final size.

I had two Beech tree stumps from my best friend Ashley. Beech is a hard, strong and a heavy wood so ideal for the base and a great way to repurpose. Starting by rough cutting (which wasn't easy with such a hard wood) it took me a couple of days to get the basic shape of the base. Next, I made a template and transferred to top and bottom of the base and over the next few days shaped the base to it's final shape.

Next step was to determine what LEDs to use and how to house a controller unit in the base and pass the LEDs up through the base. I looked at many LEDs and although Philips Hue Lightstrips are expensive compared to others, I needed it to work with Hue products or other Zigbee certified products.

Having ordered the Lightstrip I turned my attention to the upright. Knowing it would be hard to cast the LEDs in just epoxy resin, and in keeping with the general look of the floor lamp, beech was again used for half the upright. This was ordered via eBay and once this and the LEDs had arrived I moved back to the base and cut out room for the controller and bored up through the base for the LEDs. Having temporarily set the controller inside the base, it became clear and an oversight that to cast the LEDs I would need to cut the controller cables, as once cast it wasn't possible for the controller to fit down the smaller LED bore.

Knowing I needed the upright to have a 30mm diameter, the beech upright was shaped to 30mm x 15mm, the LED Lightstrip was then cut and stuck to the upright. Now how can it cast in epoxy resin? Looking at Clear Perspex Tube, and having found a supplier on eBay who had a 30mm inner bore in stock, it was ordered. As stated earlier, I have no knowledge of using epoxy resin so my first port of call was YouTube, most of the content out there was River Tables, Jewellery, and Dried Flower Ornaments and did not cover my needs, so searching for more help I was able to find http://www.talkcomposites.com/. "under share your casting project" I started a long conversation with the Easy Composites team and with their help and guidance began to understand how to use this medium and what I needed to achieve the casting of the LEDs.

It's time to cast and I've made a jig to stand the upright in whilst casting and curing. This part was challenging and not without problems. Prior to casting I had done a white pigment test by casting a sample the same thickness as the main cast. However, it was too opaque and the LED light could not pass through the white pigment enough so I abandoned the use of pigment in the main cast. On casting I had mixed the resin too aggressively and found micro-bubbles forming. This however has given the cast a "cool effect". Once cast the resin I had used from GlassCast would take 3 days to cure but to be fully hardened would take 7 days. This was to become trying and I had to stop myself from de-casting after 3 days. After 24 hrs the resin had dropped by a good inch and I hadn't allowed or understood this would happen as the air bubbles escaped, this would have a detrimental effect later when it comes to rewire the LEDs to the controller unit.

Seven days later, I can now de-cast and carefully remove the perspex tube. Resin has flowed behind the beech upright, but prior to casting I used release tape to cover the upright. When all the mould was removed I roughly sanded the wood and resin. Next using ET515 Semi Flexible 15 minute Epoxy Adhesive, I bonded on the beech top to cap off the upright which cured in 15 minutes but I left it longer. To achieve the final finish, I wet and dry sanded the resin side and fine sanded the wood side. It took a while and I was careful not to undo the smooth finish achieved.

With the issue of the resin dropping, when it came to marrying the upright and base together, I had to cut off an inch of beech from the upright. Now the LED was an inch longer so this extra length has to be bent into the bore of the base. I rewired the LEDs back to the controller unit and before fixing upright to the base checked functionality. All was working fine and even worked via Alexa. Another jig was needed to keep the upright and the base parallel whilst bonding. I installed the controller inside the base and placed in the jig and used the semi flexible adhesive to bond the upright and base. Leaving overnight I removed from the jig and tested LEDs, now I had a problem as bending the LED strip had caused a short and the lower part of the LEDS when set to a certain colour would be different to the rest of the lightstrip. Not to be deterred I now set about the final two casts. The top and bottom of the base would be white epoxy resin, using 0.5mm Clear Thin Flexible Plastic. I formed it around the top and made the resin adding 5 drops to 50g and poured. Once set I repeated for the base but this time I used the first jig and made sure the bottom pour would turn out level as this is what it would stand on when finished.

Both top and bottom pours went without any problems and when set I cleaned up the edges and wet and dry sanded, I then gave the whole lamp a final sanding to make sure everything was smooth. Finally, I masked up all the resin parts ready to dye and wax. Giving it 2 coats of Colron American Walnut Wood Dye and 3 coats of clear wax.

Before I close I would like to thank these people:
eBay - SARAH LIEVESLEY (look-now-more) for the Clear Perspex Tube.
eBay - Kevin Jenkins (kjjoinery) for the Beech Hardwood Timber Offcut.
eBay - GlassCast for the GlassCast50 Epoxy Resin.
Easy Composites for all other supplies.
Talk Composites forum Warren who's help has guided me.

From start to finish I think it's been 2 months in the making, honestly I've lost track of days and time due to coronavirus. You might ask what was the point? I'll let you figure that out so I can focus on my next epoxy resin project.

Warren (Staff)
Warren (Staff)
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Certainly looks amazing when lit up like that!  Any ideas on your next project?


Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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