My version of a Philips Hue Signe floor light


Author
Message
David Grant
David Grant
Supreme Being (110 reputation)Supreme Being (110 reputation)Supreme Being (110 reputation)Supreme Being (110 reputation)Supreme Being (110 reputation)Supreme Being (110 reputation)Supreme Being (110 reputation)Supreme Being (110 reputation)Supreme Being (110 reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 13, Visits: 86
This is my first time using epoxy resin and I'm trying to make a Philips Hue Signe floor light.
The base is beech and so is the upright, for lighting I'm using the Philips Hue Lightstrip Plus.
After speaking to GlassCast® they have advised I use GlassCast® 50, I will also be adding White GlassCast Opaque Colour Pigment.
I’ve figured out all the mechanics to make this work and have the base made from a solid piece of Beech and the upright, however I need help with the resin pour.
I have attached a rough sketch and a photo in workshop showing test assembly, and hope it's clear what I am trying to do - see below.
The pour will be inside Clear Perspex Tube 36 x 30mm Bore x approx 1200mm long.
I will be cutting the cable from the controller unit and lightstrip and reconnecting through base then I will epoxy resin the base so seal in the controller.

Questions:
I will fix the led to the upright and slide the beech down the tube (beech upright is 30mm x 15mm), then I will close of the top and pour from the bottom.
1) Can I pour this in one go and if I do will it be full of bubbles.
2) Will I need to seal the surface of the beech upright before I pour.
3) I will remove the clear acrylic tube once set, will this be an issue – hard to remove, or could I use a release agent prior to casting.
4) White Colour Pigments, not sure on how many drops to make it opaque enough that the led light is bright and clear but you can’t see the lightstrip.
5) I've watched videos on pouring onto led lights but worried the heat from resin will melt the lightstrip cover, thoughts on this please.

Sorry for a lot of questions but want to make sure I don't mess this up as it's costing me a few pound to do this.
For now I think that covers it and in advance many thanks for your help, btw what do you think of this?
Many Thanks
Dave







David Grant
David Grant
Supreme Being (110 reputation)Supreme Being (110 reputation)Supreme Being (110 reputation)Supreme Being (110 reputation)Supreme Being (110 reputation)Supreme Being (110 reputation)Supreme Being (110 reputation)Supreme Being (110 reputation)Supreme Being (110 reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 13, Visits: 86
Warren (Staff) - 5/14/2020 1:56:07 PM
Still looks pretty cool even with the bubbles.  Were you around 20C?  Temperature can greatly effect the viscosity and how much air is trapped in mixing.

A project like this where the bubbles can't escape might benefit from degassing the resin before pouring and then just pour as carefully as possible to avoid trapping air then.  An open topped mould, you could have easily run a heat gun over the surface leaving the resin bubble free.

Still looks pretty damn cool.

Soldering takes a bit of practice - plenty of good videos on youtube on basic soldering that should help you avoid a dry/bad joint.

Yes at 20c, and used air gun. Not to worried and like it.
I'm done - Hooray
Trying to write up about the who process and do a video of it finished, so will post when all done.

GO

Merge Selected

Merge into selected topic...



Merge into merge target...



Merge into a specific topic ID...




Similar Topics

Reading This Topic

Explore
Messages
Mentions
Search