My version of a Philips Hue Signe floor light

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My version of a Philips Hue Signe floor light

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David Grant	David Grant posted 5 Years Ago HOT Topic Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 13, Visits: 86	This is my first time using epoxy resin and I'm trying to make a Philips Hue Signe floor light. The base is beech and so is the upright, for lighting I'm using the Philips Hue Lightstrip Plus. After speaking to GlassCast® they have advised I use GlassCast® 50, I will also be adding White GlassCast Opaque Colour Pigment. I’ve figured out all the mechanics to make this work and have the base made from a solid piece of Beech and the upright, however I need help with the resin pour. I have attached a rough sketch and a photo in workshop showing test assembly, and hope it's clear what I am trying to do - see below. The pour will be inside Clear Perspex Tube 36 x 30mm Bore x approx 1200mm long. I will be cutting the cable from the controller unit and lightstrip and reconnecting through base then I will epoxy resin the base so seal in the controller. Questions: I will fix the led to the upright and slide the beech down the tube (beech upright is 30mm x 15mm), then I will close of the top and pour from the bottom. 1) Can I pour this in one go and if I do will it be full of bubbles. 2) Will I need to seal the surface of the beech upright before I pour. 3) I will remove the clear acrylic tube once set, will this be an issue – hard to remove, or could I use a release agent prior to casting. 4) White Colour Pigments, not sure on how many drops to make it opaque enough that the led light is bright and clear but you can’t see the lightstrip. 5) I've watched videos on pouring onto led lights but worried the heat from resin will melt the lightstrip cover, thoughts on this please. Sorry for a lot of questions but want to make sure I don't mess this up as it's costing me a few pound to do this. For now I think that covers it and in advance many thanks for your help, btw what do you think of this? Many Thanks Dave Tags bubbles GlassCast 50 LED
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David Grant	David Grant posted 5 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 13, Visits: 86	+x David Grant - 4/27/2020 12:53:56 PM +x Warren (Staff) - 4/27/2020 12:09:47 PM PVA would be a super safe option if applied evenly. However it will likely leave surface marring that needs polishing out. Alternatively 5 or 6 coats of mould release wax should have no issues but leave a better finish. What was happening? did the solvents attack/etch the surface? The tube became dirty inside the bore (my bad) and I used Easy-Lease Mould Cleaner, things didn't look right after that. Once I used the Easy-Lease Chemical Release Agent the tube became brittle and cracks started forming, only had to tap it and it shattered. Tube on back order so project on hold at mo. Whilst I'm here Warren, I did a pigment test to the exact dimensions of the final cast (width/depth but only 75mm long) and added one drop of the CULR Epoxy Pigment White to 25g of epoxy, so less than stated. The test came out great and the led light will pass through - however even with the lights on full brightness it only passes through three quarters of the length of the test piece. So I will have to go for a clear cast when I was trying to achieve a frosted look. I can't take a photo to demonstrate as I've already cut the cable on leds but hope this makes sense. Warren, would just like to clarify the release wax option, it says (Suitable Uses) that it is not suitable for high temperature applications such as elevated temperature cure, pre-preg or wet-lay where exotherm in the part is likely to take the mould surface over 50°C. On my first post you said "The above advice with the fan may help keep the exotherm down a bit. Typically I would expect to see around 60C during the cure - more if the exotherm begins to run away a bit." So can I still use the wax or should I go for the PVA?
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David Grant	David Grant posted 5 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 13, Visits: 86	+x David Grant - 4/27/2020 2:46:11 PM +x David Grant - 4/27/2020 12:53:56 PM +x Warren (Staff) - 4/27/2020 12:09:47 PM PVA would be a super safe option if applied evenly. However it will likely leave surface marring that needs polishing out. Alternatively 5 or 6 coats of mould release wax should have no issues but leave a better finish. What was happening? did the solvents attack/etch the surface? The tube became dirty inside the bore (my bad) and I used Easy-Lease Mould Cleaner, things didn't look right after that. Once I used the Easy-Lease Chemical Release Agent the tube became brittle and cracks started forming, only had to tap it and it shattered. Tube on back order so project on hold at mo. Whilst I'm here Warren, I did a pigment test to the exact dimensions of the final cast (width/depth but only 75mm long) and added one drop of the CULR Epoxy Pigment White to 25g of epoxy, so less than stated. The test came out great and the led light will pass through - however even with the lights on full brightness it only passes through three quarters of the length of the test piece. So I will have to go for a clear cast when I was trying to achieve a frosted look. I can't take a photo to demonstrate as I've already cut the cable on leds but hope this makes sense. Warren, would just like to clarify the release wax option, it says (Suitable Uses) that it is not suitable for high temperature applications such as elevated temperature cure, pre-preg or wet-lay where exotherm in the part is likely to take the mould surface over 50°C. On my first post you said "The above advice with the fan may help keep the exotherm down a bit. Typically I would expect to see around 60C during the cure - more if the exotherm begins to run away a bit." So can I still use the wax or should I go for the PVA? Sorry need to add more as wish to get order in asap - looking at other suppliers they are saying... " Stoner Miracle Gloss M-08 Maximum Mold Release Wax was the GRP industries first paste release wax and is still the most widely used, due to it's excellent performance. Can withstand exotherm of up to 120 C."
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