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pootrain
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 3,
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+x+x+x+x+xIt should still fill the holes fine. However its the slight refraction between the two layers - the fresher the resin, the more cross linking will occur with the new pour. After a week or so, You may not get it to look much better. Is this my best bet for something like this? Got a bit over zealous with a heat gun and kind of cooked the resin as bubbles were coming out from under the caps.  Good Morning, Thank you for getting in contact. It seems as though all of the bubbles are on the surface of the resin. To repair this, you will need to completely sand the surface until all marks have been removed and then you could either pour a new layer of GlassCast 3 or move up the grits of sand paper and then finish with a polish. If you are working in a room that is 20'c, it is not necessary to go over the resin with a heat gun as it is completely self degassing. However, if you are going to use a heat gun, you have to go over the surface very quickly trying not to over heat the resin. I hope this helps. Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately a few of the bubbles actually go all the way down to the surface of the table and between the caps so sanding would not be very feasible. Would drilling down into them and then sanding the surface left exposed work? Forgot to say I am planning on pouring another layer anyway to achieve the depth I want. Thank you for getting back to me. Unfortunately you will need to drill down into the resin and pour more in to fill the gaps. I am sorry I don't have better news for you. Thats fine. Thank you for your help.
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Tom (Staff)
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Group: Moderators
Posts: 21,
Visits: 977
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+x+x+x+xIt should still fill the holes fine. However its the slight refraction between the two layers - the fresher the resin, the more cross linking will occur with the new pour. After a week or so, You may not get it to look much better. Is this my best bet for something like this? Got a bit over zealous with a heat gun and kind of cooked the resin as bubbles were coming out from under the caps. Good Morning, Thank you for getting in contact. It seems as though all of the bubbles are on the surface of the resin. To repair this, you will need to completely sand the surface until all marks have been removed and then you could either pour a new layer of GlassCast 3 or move up the grits of sand paper and then finish with a polish. If you are working in a room that is 20'c, it is not necessary to go over the resin with a heat gun as it is completely self degassing. However, if you are going to use a heat gun, you have to go over the surface very quickly trying not to over heat the resin. I hope this helps. Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately a few of the bubbles actually go all the way down to the surface of the table and between the caps so sanding would not be very feasible. Would drilling down into them and then sanding the surface left exposed work? Forgot to say I am planning on pouring another layer anyway to achieve the depth I want. Thank you for getting back to me. Unfortunately you will need to drill down into the resin and pour more in to fill the gaps. I am sorry I don't have better news for you.
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pootrain
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 3,
Visits: 17
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+x+x+xIt should still fill the holes fine. However its the slight refraction between the two layers - the fresher the resin, the more cross linking will occur with the new pour. After a week or so, You may not get it to look much better. Is this my best bet for something like this? Got a bit over zealous with a heat gun and kind of cooked the resin as bubbles were coming out from under the caps. Good Morning, Thank you for getting in contact. It seems as though all of the bubbles are on the surface of the resin. To repair this, you will need to completely sand the surface until all marks have been removed and then you could either pour a new layer of GlassCast 3 or move up the grits of sand paper and then finish with a polish. If you are working in a room that is 20'c, it is not necessary to go over the resin with a heat gun as it is completely self degassing. However, if you are going to use a heat gun, you have to go over the surface very quickly trying not to over heat the resin. I hope this helps. Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately a few of the bubbles actually go all the way down to the surface of the table and between the caps so sanding would not be very feasible. Would drilling down into them and then sanding the surface left exposed work? Forgot to say I am planning on pouring another layer anyway to achieve the depth I want.
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Tom (Staff)
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Group: Moderators
Posts: 21,
Visits: 977
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+x+xIt should still fill the holes fine. However its the slight refraction between the two layers - the fresher the resin, the more cross linking will occur with the new pour. After a week or so, You may not get it to look much better. Is this my best bet for something like this? Got a bit over zealous with a heat gun and kind of cooked the resin as bubbles were coming out from under the caps. Good Morning, Thank you for getting in contact. It seems as though all of the bubbles are on the surface of the resin. To repair this, you will need to completely sand the surface until all marks have been removed and then you could either pour a new layer of GlassCast 3 or move up the grits of sand paper and then finish with a polish. If you are working in a room that is 20'c, it is not necessary to go over the resin with a heat gun as it is completely self degassing. However, if you are going to use a heat gun, you have to go over the surface very quickly trying not to over heat the resin. I hope this helps.
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pootrain
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 3,
Visits: 17
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+xIt should still fill the holes fine. However its the slight refraction between the two layers - the fresher the resin, the more cross linking will occur with the new pour. After a week or so, You may not get it to look much better. Is this my best bet for something like this? Got a bit over zealous with a heat gun and kind of cooked the resin as bubbles were coming out from under the caps.
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Warren (Staff)
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Group: Administrators
Posts: 2.5K,
Visits: 8.5K
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It should still fill the holes fine. However its the slight refraction between the two layers - the fresher the resin, the more cross linking will occur with the new pour. After a week or so, You may not get it to look much better.
Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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Peter Czaga
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Group: Forum Members
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Hi Warren,
Thank you the tips.
Should 1 week difference between the pours be alright?
I mean the main pour has cured 5 days ago. So do i have a good chance the fix it properly if try to do it today? (drill holes)
Peter
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Warren (Staff)
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Group: Administrators
Posts: 2.5K,
Visits: 8.5K
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Unfortunately you will struggle to get those deep bubbles out. You could try drilling or grinding a hole down to them then re-filling it, but chances are it may still show up once cured. Bubbles near the surface are easier to deal with. Also the fresher the resin pour, the less likely you will see the repair as there fresher the pour the more cross-linking will occur.
Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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Peter Czaga
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Group: Forum Members
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Visits: 12
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I would like to ask some tips how to fix bubbles in a completely cured resin? Unfortunately some bubbles has showed up at the end of the first stage so i couldn't fix it at that moment because it was partially cured. After the finish of the second stage and cured completely, i have drilled some test holes into an off-cut piece to check what's going to happen when i filled it with resin again. I cleaned the holes with white spirit and vacuum cleaner so the holes were fully clean. But i am not really satisfied with the results. Is there any way to fix those bubbles? I attached 2 pictures (bubbles and test holes) I have used Glasscast 50  
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