Tooling gelcoat imperfections on mold surface


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Coldever
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Did the second mold and it came out better. I applied the first layer of gel with a more consistent thickness and applied the second coat later than previously (first layer in the morning and second in the evening instead of the recommended 2-3 h inbetween). No alligators this time, thanks for the help! 


Edited 6 Years Ago by Coldever
oekmont
oekmont
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That won't really change anything, as a second layer of gelcoat attacks the first layer in the same way. It's about getting the first layer down nicely.

Coldever
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Fasta - 5/7/2019 1:51:57 PM
Coldever - 5/7/2019 11:47:12 AM
oekmont - 5/7/2019 9:46:50 AM
This seems to me like "alligatoring". This can happen when your poly/vinylestet gelcoat is applied too thin. This results in too much styrene evaporating relatively. And because the styrene is a reactive component of the resin, the resin does not fully cure. This is how gelcoat stays reactive on the surface, but if the layer is too thin, the whole layer does not cure properly. The next layer of resin the attacks the semi cured resin, resulting in these wormy imperfections.
To avoid this, use a fine brush, as brushmarks are the easiest attacking spots for alligatoring. And then apply the gelcoat a little thicker. And as even as possible. Best way would be a gelcoat spray gun.

Thanks, that makes sense as most of the "alligators" are located on the mold flange where I probably didn't pay that much attention to the brush marks and coating thickness.

Definitely alligatoring, maybe a combination of a few things.
Gelcoat too thin near the edges
Vinylester is very aggressive compared to polyester so you need to be sure the gelcoat is thick and the resin gels fast.
Melamine board releases very easliy compared to other materials, I actually make a point of avoiding melamine for flanges etc as it can release too easily with resin shrinkage.

Thanks for the reply. Maybe I should apply a third coat of gel coat to make sure it's nice and even everywhere. My plug is the same color as the gel coat so it's kinda hard to visually make sure there's enough paint everywhere.

Fasta
Fasta
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Coldever - 5/7/2019 11:47:12 AM
oekmont - 5/7/2019 9:46:50 AM
This seems to me like "alligatoring". This can happen when your poly/vinylestet gelcoat is applied too thin. This results in too much styrene evaporating relatively. And because the styrene is a reactive component of the resin, the resin does not fully cure. This is how gelcoat stays reactive on the surface, but if the layer is too thin, the whole layer does not cure properly. The next layer of resin the attacks the semi cured resin, resulting in these wormy imperfections.
To avoid this, use a fine brush, as brushmarks are the easiest attacking spots for alligatoring. And then apply the gelcoat a little thicker. And as even as possible. Best way would be a gelcoat spray gun.

Thanks, that makes sense as most of the "alligators" are located on the mold flange where I probably didn't pay that much attention to the brush marks and coating thickness.

Definitely alligatoring, maybe a combination of a few things.
Gelcoat too thin near the edges
Vinylester is very aggressive compared to polyester so you need to be sure the gelcoat is thick and the resin gels fast.
Melamine board releases very easliy compared to other materials, I actually make a point of avoiding melamine for flanges etc as it can release too easily with resin shrinkage.





Edited 6 Years Ago by Fasta
Coldever
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oekmont - 5/7/2019 9:46:50 AM
This seems to me like "alligatoring". This can happen when your poly/vinylestet gelcoat is applied too thin. This results in too much styrene evaporating relatively. And because the styrene is a reactive component of the resin, the resin does not fully cure. This is how gelcoat stays reactive on the surface, but if the layer is too thin, the whole layer does not cure properly. The next layer of resin the attacks the semi cured resin, resulting in these wormy imperfections.
To avoid this, use a fine brush, as brushmarks are the easiest attacking spots for alligatoring. And then apply the gelcoat a little thicker. And as even as possible. Best way would be a gelcoat spray gun.

Thanks, that makes sense as most of the "alligators" are located on the mold flange where I probably didn't pay that much attention to the brush marks and coating thickness.

oekmont
oekmont
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This seems to me like "alligatoring". This can happen when your poly/vinylestet gelcoat is applied too thin. This results in too much styrene evaporating relatively. And because the styrene is a reactive component of the resin, the resin does not fully cure. This is how gelcoat stays reactive on the surface, but if the layer is too thin, the whole layer does not cure properly. The next layer of resin the attacks the semi cured resin, resulting in these wormy imperfections.
To avoid this, use a fine brush, as brushmarks are the easiest attacking spots for alligatoring. And then apply the gelcoat a little thicker. And as even as possible. Best way would be a gelcoat spray gun.

Coldever
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I'm doing a new mold for a bike project and 98% of my mold surface is perfect but I got a few imperfections on the gel coat surface (see attached photo). Does anyone have a clue what could be causing them and how I can avoid them on the next mold? My mold making process:

- I had a painted mdf plug attached to a melamine board which acts as the parting surface.
- 6 x layers of Easylease 15 mins apart
- 1 layer of Meguiars no.8 after waiting an hour
- Filleting wax applied to the plug/base joint.
- 2 layers of Uni-Mould Tooling Gel Coat applied 2 hours apart
- Layer of 100g chopped glassfiber laminated on top with vinylester resin the next day
- Later several layers of 300g chopped glassfiber laminated with vinylester
- Demoulded after about 30 hours of curing in about 20 degrees. 

Btw, demoulding was super easy. First time using Easy-Lease - works like a charm!

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Edited 6 Years Ago by Coldever
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