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Hanaldo
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Yeh powder bound chop strand is awful stuff, terrible to work with. Woven reinforcement is the go for use with epoxy, with a bit of loose rovings first to help pack in tight corners.
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Eddie Walsh
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+xYeh powder bound chop strand is awful stuff, terrible to work with. Woven reinforcement is the go for use with epoxy, with a bit of loose rovings first to help pack in tight corners. Hi Hanaldo, Thanks, this is my first time trying Epoxy and I was following all the info I got on here, and when Matt said I could use CSM all he said was use the Powder Bound one ?? and I asked how I could tell what I already got ( I have been doing Polyester Fiberglass Molds and Molding for over 40 years so got plenty in stock) and Matt said to just roll a piece in your hands ans see if the powder comes off, so why did someone not say do not use CSM powder bound ???, what type of Woven Reinforcement should I ask for, again Thanks for your positive input, Regards DM
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Eddie Walsh
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Group: Forum Members
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+x+xYeh powder bound chop strand is awful stuff, terrible to work with. Woven reinforcement is the go for use with epoxy, with a bit of loose rovings first to help pack in tight corners. Hi Hanaldo, Thanks, this is my first time trying Epoxy and I was following all the info I got on here, and when Matt said I could use CSM all he said was use the Powder Bound one ?? and I asked how I could tell what I already got ( I have been doing Polyester Fiberglass Molds and Molding for over 40 years so got plenty in stock) and Matt said to just roll a piece in your hands ans see if the powder comes off, so why did someone not say do not use CSM powder bound ???, what type of Woven Reinforcement should I ask for, again Thanks for your positive input, Regards DM Here is the shopping list Matt gave me; Steve's material suggestion looks spot on. I would probably also suggest that - given the relative complexity of the mould - you use a combination of our EMP160 paste, along with conventional laminating resin and glass for the reinforcement. What you can do is use the paste on the inside of all the corners of the mould, filling in the detail and creating a much smoother profile. You can then use the resin and glass (woven glass could be used at this stage) to lay over the paste and add the main strength to the mould. This is a combination that we'll be featuring in an upcoming tutorial where we undertake a very complex mould using a hand layup from (a Kawasaki motorcycle front fairing). The paste and resin can all be used 'wet-on-wet'. For a hand-layup process suitable for making prepreg parts, here's the full shopping list: Setting up your barriers (for the split): Polypropylene Plastic Sheet Filleting Wax Preparing the pattern (release agent): Easy-Lease Chemical Release Agent #8 Mould Release Wax Laminating the mould: EG160 High Temperature Epoxy Tooling Gelcoat EMP160 Epoxy Moulding Paste EL160 High Temperature Tooling Resin Choice of: 300gsm Powder Bound Chopped Strand Mat or/ 280gsm Woven Glass Cloth
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oekmont
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Group: Forum Members
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As far as I read, he did advice you to use 280g/m^2 woven material on top of the high temp moulding paste as a coupling coat. No word of csm. Although he didn't advice against it either.
When trying new material, a quick test always works best. In case of your csm mat, a test, if it gets plyable when impregnated with epoxy. the powder test doesn't seem reliable to me. My csm is also powdery, but definitely not epoxy compatible.
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Eddie Walsh
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 52,
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+xAs far as I read, he did advice you to use 280g/m^2 woven material on top of the high temp moulding paste as a coupling coat. No word of csm. Although he didn't advice against it either. When trying new material, a quick test always works best. In case of your csm mat, a test, if it gets plyable when impregnated with epoxy. the powder test doesn't seem reliable to me. My csm is also powdery, but definitely not epoxy compatible. Below is the last line in the shopping list, so I just looked at what I got and went with the Powder bound CSM ??? Regards DM Choice of: 300gsm Powder Bound Chopped Strand Mat or/ 280gsm Woven Glass Cloth
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Eddie Walsh
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 52,
Visits: 294
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+x+xAs far as I read, he did advice you to use 280g/m^2 woven material on top of the high temp moulding paste as a coupling coat. No word of csm. Although he didn't advice against it either. When trying new material, a quick test always works best. In case of your csm mat, a test, if it gets plyable when impregnated with epoxy. the powder test doesn't seem reliable to me. My csm is also powdery, but definitely not epoxy compatible. Below is the last line in the shopping list, so I just looked at what I got and went with the Powder bound CSM ??? Regards DM Choice of: 300gsm Powder Bound Chopped Strand Mat or/ 280gsm Woven Glass Cloth I have just been looking on Ebay for some "280 GSM Woven Glass cloth", and all I seem to find is " Woven roving mat" is that the same thing, as I do have some Woven Roving Mat which I have used for Poleyester Molds and Moldings ??, Regards DM
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Steve Broad
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+x+x+xAs far as I read, he did advice you to use 280g/m^2 woven material on top of the high temp moulding paste as a coupling coat. No word of csm. Although he didn't advice against it either. When trying new material, a quick test always works best. In case of your csm mat, a test, if it gets plyable when impregnated with epoxy. the powder test doesn't seem reliable to me. My csm is also powdery, but definitely not epoxy compatible. Below is the last line in the shopping list, so I just looked at what I got and went with the Powder bound CSM ??? Regards DM Choice of: 300gsm Powder Bound Chopped Strand Mat or/ 280gsm Woven Glass Cloth I have just been looking on Ebay for some "280 GSM Woven Glass cloth", and all I seem to find is " Woven roving mat" is that the same thing, as I do have some Woven Roving Mat which I have used for Poleyester Molds and Moldings ??, Regards DM
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oekmont
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Group: Forum Members
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That should be just a problem of using the wrong words/combination. There are eBay sellers for almost every weave you can think of. And for shure such common types.
Roving weaves are heavy cloth with whole rovings as threats. they are great to get a lot of reinforcement onto your laminate quickly, but they are not good as first layer, as they leave a texture through the tooling coat, because of their rough surface.
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Eddie Walsh
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Group: Forum Members
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+xThat should be just a problem of using the wrong words/combination. There are eBay sellers for almost every weave you can think of. And for shure such common types. Roving weaves are heavy cloth with whole rovings as threats. they are great to get a lot of reinforcement onto your laminate quickly, but they are not good as first layer, as they leave a texture through the tooling coat, because of their rough surface. I do not understand what you are advising,what do I need Roving or Cloth, Thanks Regards DM
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oekmont
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Group: Forum Members
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How i do it: 166g Glass filament fabric for the first layer
And then alternating between 600g roving fabric and 600g biaxial until the desired thickness is achieved.
If you first use putty all like mat suggests, the first lighter cloth should not be necessary. But a medium weight like 280 should be ideal to minimise print through.
Everything with "Roving" in it's description should usually be to rough in it's texture. Except rovings itself...
Everything with "mat" usually hints that there is some csm content, as far as i know.
I advice a standard medium weight glass filament fabric. between 200 and 300g.
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