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Eddie Walsh
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+xAs far as I read, he did advice you to use 280g/m^2 woven material on top of the high temp moulding paste as a coupling coat. No word of csm. Although he didn't advice against it either. When trying new material, a quick test always works best. In case of your csm mat, a test, if it gets plyable when impregnated with epoxy. the powder test doesn't seem reliable to me. My csm is also powdery, but definitely not epoxy compatible. Below is the last line in the shopping list, so I just looked at what I got and went with the Powder bound CSM ??? Regards DM Choice of: 300gsm Powder Bound Chopped Strand Mat or/ 280gsm Woven Glass Cloth
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oekmont
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As far as I read, he did advice you to use 280g/m^2 woven material on top of the high temp moulding paste as a coupling coat. No word of csm. Although he didn't advice against it either.
When trying new material, a quick test always works best. In case of your csm mat, a test, if it gets plyable when impregnated with epoxy. the powder test doesn't seem reliable to me. My csm is also powdery, but definitely not epoxy compatible.
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Eddie Walsh
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+x+xYeh powder bound chop strand is awful stuff, terrible to work with. Woven reinforcement is the go for use with epoxy, with a bit of loose rovings first to help pack in tight corners. Hi Hanaldo, Thanks, this is my first time trying Epoxy and I was following all the info I got on here, and when Matt said I could use CSM all he said was use the Powder Bound one ?? and I asked how I could tell what I already got ( I have been doing Polyester Fiberglass Molds and Molding for over 40 years so got plenty in stock) and Matt said to just roll a piece in your hands ans see if the powder comes off, so why did someone not say do not use CSM powder bound ???, what type of Woven Reinforcement should I ask for, again Thanks for your positive input, Regards DM Here is the shopping list Matt gave me; Steve's material suggestion looks spot on. I would probably also suggest that - given the relative complexity of the mould - you use a combination of our EMP160 paste, along with conventional laminating resin and glass for the reinforcement. What you can do is use the paste on the inside of all the corners of the mould, filling in the detail and creating a much smoother profile. You can then use the resin and glass (woven glass could be used at this stage) to lay over the paste and add the main strength to the mould. This is a combination that we'll be featuring in an upcoming tutorial where we undertake a very complex mould using a hand layup from (a Kawasaki motorcycle front fairing). The paste and resin can all be used 'wet-on-wet'. For a hand-layup process suitable for making prepreg parts, here's the full shopping list: Setting up your barriers (for the split): Polypropylene Plastic Sheet Filleting Wax Preparing the pattern (release agent): Easy-Lease Chemical Release Agent #8 Mould Release Wax Laminating the mould: EG160 High Temperature Epoxy Tooling Gelcoat EMP160 Epoxy Moulding Paste EL160 High Temperature Tooling Resin Choice of: 300gsm Powder Bound Chopped Strand Mat or/ 280gsm Woven Glass Cloth
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Eddie Walsh
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Group: Forum Members
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+xYeh powder bound chop strand is awful stuff, terrible to work with. Woven reinforcement is the go for use with epoxy, with a bit of loose rovings first to help pack in tight corners. Hi Hanaldo, Thanks, this is my first time trying Epoxy and I was following all the info I got on here, and when Matt said I could use CSM all he said was use the Powder Bound one ?? and I asked how I could tell what I already got ( I have been doing Polyester Fiberglass Molds and Molding for over 40 years so got plenty in stock) and Matt said to just roll a piece in your hands ans see if the powder comes off, so why did someone not say do not use CSM powder bound ???, what type of Woven Reinforcement should I ask for, again Thanks for your positive input, Regards DM
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Hanaldo
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Yeh powder bound chop strand is awful stuff, terrible to work with. Woven reinforcement is the go for use with epoxy, with a bit of loose rovings first to help pack in tight corners.
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oekmont
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Epoxy doesn't dissolve usual binders, because it doesn't contain solvents. In tooling applications epoxy is usually used in combination with woven cloth. The first layer of a mould would be something like 160 g/m^2 glass cloth.
Or is it a special epoxy compatible mat? They behave different than standard csm in polyester. In direct comparison the word "worse" would describe it best. But not as bad as you described.
To be honest, I would recommend to let it cure and start again with proper planning and testing.
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Eddie Walsh
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+x+xYeh these sorts of epoxies are 100% solids - there are no solvents in them, and you cant add solvents to them. Only way to lower the viscosity is with heat. Hi All again, Thanks for the advice, I will let you know how it turns out whether it is good or bad news, Regards DM Hi All, I have just spent most of the day trying to roll out the first layers of Mat on my mould ???, what it seemed like is the Epoxy Resin wasn't dissolving the Powder Binder in the Mat so I was just chasing large air pockets under my mat ?? eventually got it so it does not look too bad but definitely not perfect, I never had anything like this with Polyester, I suppose I was lucky temp was still low or it would have cured before I got it to a resonable state, again any help or advice appreciated, Regards DM
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Eddie Walsh
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Group: Forum Members
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+xYeh these sorts of epoxies are 100% solids - there are no solvents in them, and you cant add solvents to them. Only way to lower the viscosity is with heat. Hi All again, Thanks for the advice, I will let you know how it turns out whether it is good or bad news, Regards DM
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Hanaldo
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Yeh these sorts of epoxies are 100% solids - there are no solvents in them, and you cant add solvents to them. Only way to lower the viscosity is with heat.
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oekmont
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=> no, not really. Except for temperature elevation.
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