oekmont
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If it's really 15 °C, it is about 10° too could at your place.
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Hanaldo
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Cut the bristles on your brush down to about an inch long, this will make it much easier to work. Make sure to pull out any loose bristles before applying the gelcoat.
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Eddie Walsh
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+xIf it's really 15 °C, it is about 10° too could at your place. Hi Thanks, sounds like I will have to take it to Bed with me ??, at least it goes off in my workshop which is just about 10 degrees C, so is there no way of thinning it out so it would spread a lot easier, again thanks, regards DM
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oekmont
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No, not really. You should definitely not work at these temperatures. Especially not with high temp resins. First: they tent to be thicker, wich makes them paste like at low temperatures. This means it is much more likely to trap air inside corners and inside the resin itself. Secondly: if you use high temp resin you will likely heat the mould up to higher temperatures. This will let the trapped air expand, and ruin your mould surface. It was you, who wanted to vacuum the mould, because he was fearing he would need to repair it because of trapped air, right? Working at low temperatures is the most reliable way to cause exactly that.
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Eddie Walsh
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+xNo, not really. You should definitely not work at these temperatures. Especially not with high temp resins. First: they tent to be thicker, wich makes them paste like at low temperatures. This means it is much more likely to trap air inside corners and inside the resin itself. Secondly: if you use high temp resin you will likely heat the mould up to higher temperatures. This will let the trapped air expand, and ruin your mould surface. It was you, who wanted to vacuum the mould, because he was fearing he would need to repair it because of trapped air, right? Working at low temperatures is the most reliable way to cause exactly that. Hi, Thanks again for the advice, but I have started so now I will have to finish as best I can, that was why I asked if there was any way of thinning it down, so is there any way to thin it down, Regards DM
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oekmont
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=> no, not really. Except for temperature elevation.
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Hanaldo
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Yeh these sorts of epoxies are 100% solids - there are no solvents in them, and you cant add solvents to them. Only way to lower the viscosity is with heat.
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Eddie Walsh
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+xYeh these sorts of epoxies are 100% solids - there are no solvents in them, and you cant add solvents to them. Only way to lower the viscosity is with heat. Hi All again, Thanks for the advice, I will let you know how it turns out whether it is good or bad news, Regards DM
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Eddie Walsh
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+x+xYeh these sorts of epoxies are 100% solids - there are no solvents in them, and you cant add solvents to them. Only way to lower the viscosity is with heat. Hi All again, Thanks for the advice, I will let you know how it turns out whether it is good or bad news, Regards DM Hi All, I have just spent most of the day trying to roll out the first layers of Mat on my mould ???, what it seemed like is the Epoxy Resin wasn't dissolving the Powder Binder in the Mat so I was just chasing large air pockets under my mat ?? eventually got it so it does not look too bad but definitely not perfect, I never had anything like this with Polyester, I suppose I was lucky temp was still low or it would have cured before I got it to a resonable state, again any help or advice appreciated, Regards DM
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oekmont
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Epoxy doesn't dissolve usual binders, because it doesn't contain solvents. In tooling applications epoxy is usually used in combination with woven cloth. The first layer of a mould would be something like 160 g/m^2 glass cloth. Or is it a special epoxy compatible mat? They behave different than standard csm in polyester. In direct comparison the word "worse" would describe it best. But not as bad as you described.
To be honest, I would recommend to let it cure and start again with proper planning and testing.
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