CF Panels from Original textured parts with atachment points, posts, clips, ect...


CF Panels from Original textured parts with atachment points, posts, clips, ect...
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Pkzipper
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Hanaldo - 7/15/2018 6:48:12 AM
Splash mould is just a quick mould that's a bit flimsier and made with cheaper materials and quickly made, figuratively 'splashing' fiberglass and resin onto the job. You can really just use regular gelcoat and general purpose polyester resin. It only needs to last one pull, so it doesn't need to be as strong as a proper mould. The important thing is to not make it so flimsy that it can warp easily and leave you with bad fitment we you make your proper mould/part.


Ah yes thank you, that is what I thought. 
Hanaldo
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Splash mould is just a quick mould that's a bit flimsier and made with cheaper materials and quickly made, figuratively 'splashing' fiberglass and resin onto the job. You can really just use regular gelcoat and general purpose polyester resin. It only needs to last one pull, so it doesn't need to be as strong as a proper mould. The important thing is to not make it so flimsy that it can warp easily and leave you with bad fitment we you make your proper mould/part.
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Hanaldo - 7/15/2018 12:32:48 AM
Honestly, I know it seems like much more work and a bit of a waste, but in my opinion when you can't modify the original then making a splash mould and a new pattern is the best way to go about getting the surface finish that you are after. It is so much quicker and easier to work on the male pattern than it is to work on the female mould. Tooling gelcoat is beautiful stuff to polish up, but trying to sand out texture is a nightmare and you end up just going with 'good enough' rather than what you actually wanted. When you can just quickly flat down the texture with some 180 grit, hit it with primer filler, and then move on to finishing it to the standard you wanted. Then your mould comes off the pattern perfectly and you can just get straight into using it without running into potential dramas like sanding into porosity etc. All in all, on stuff the size of a vehicle interior panel it costs you maybe $30 in materials and a day of labour. For me that makes more sense than half a day of trying to refinish your mould and coming away with a mould that isn't really what you wanted.


As for the clips and fasteners, well... There's a reason I don't really do interior parts. There isn't really a perfect solution for this, and it comes down to you finding the solution that works for the job you're doing. For the most part, that means bonding on things like rivnuts, bighead fasteners, nutplates, threaded rod etc. Obviously a jig helps here, whether that's one you make yourself or whether you use the original mounting location and find a way to hold the part in place while the adhesive cures.


Thank you so much for the direct response. I figured as much that it would be easier to make a new pattern and what I was looking for was the answer about the female mold. 
I am curious about the term 
"Splash Mold"? Not an expert and not really sure what the exact definition to it is?


As for the clips I do hope someone can chime in. Getting them on i am sure i can figure out with a simple mold made from that side with keys of sorts to marry up with the face half. That side is not visible so making it look pretty means nothing it is just strength. They are thin pins, vertical flat fins and pyramid shape guides that would be stronger then heck in carbon but snap off quickly in plastic. I was even thinking a silicone mold to make the parts and then gluing it on?

Hope some one can shed some experiance to this.

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Honestly, I know it seems like much more work and a bit of a waste, but in my opinion when you can't modify the original then making a splash mould and a new pattern is the best way to go about getting the surface finish that you are after. It is so much quicker and easier to work on the male pattern than it is to work on the female mould. Tooling gelcoat is beautiful stuff to polish up, but trying to sand out texture is a nightmare and you end up just going with 'good enough' rather than what you actually wanted. When you can just quickly flat down the texture with some 180 grit, hit it with primer filler, and then move on to finishing it to the standard you wanted. Then your mould comes off the pattern perfectly and you can just get straight into using it without running into potential dramas like sanding into porosity etc. All in all, on stuff the size of a vehicle interior panel it costs you maybe $30 in materials and a day of labour. For me that makes more sense than half a day of trying to refinish your mould and coming away with a mould that isn't really what you wanted.


As for the clips and fasteners, well... There's a reason I don't really do interior parts. There isn't really a perfect solution for this, and it comes down to you finding the solution that works for the job you're doing. For the most part, that means bonding on things like rivnuts, bighead fasteners, nutplates, threaded rod etc. Obviously a jig helps here, whether that's one you make yourself or whether you use the original mounting location and find a way to hold the part in place while the adhesive cures.
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Hello all,
Here is a post (http://www.talkcomposites.com/23154/CF-clips-for-car-dashboard) that covers one part of my question that i do not think has been really answered and i would love some more clarity on this. I have a few ideas like making partial backing molds to be glued or templates to align the posts and clips. Easy in principle but strength is vital as shown in the picture of the post showing gussets. 
The part of this questions is the texture on the original part and how to remove it effectively. Obviously smoothing the original is an option but that would meaning destroying it. Also the original is plastic and smoothing it is very difficult and time consuming.
I also have thought about making a mold of the original, then making copy of the panel, from FG, from the mould and smoothing and adjusting it to my liking. It seems like that there might be a lot of un-necessary effort and steps in this approach.
Finally, I though about just adding an extra layer, or two, of gel coat when making the mold so that I can just sand and polish the mold for the finished product.
I would love to eliminate the trail and error and get some practical advice from experience.

GO

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