Hi,

I want to make my Clio´s bonnet, but i´ve got question:

Because it´s a part that will be exposed to the sun, do i have to use a resin resistant to the UV?

If i use a simple polyester resin, will it be "yellowed" with time?

first up a sarcastic response:

so.....
auto paint for example
if you use auto paint,and i am not sure of VOC regulations in Europe, use high solids acrylic urethane automotive clearcoat from which ever brand
you can get or you like.
lacquers are obsolete, dont use them. (high VOC content, bad for mother earth)
the modern clearcoats for autos have 2 components. the clear,and its activator. some also will have a reducer(thinner) for special
needs in refinishing. it has UV protections built in--
and can be polished to look like glass!!

VOC's--thinners,reducers, solvents

high solids clears -- high in solids and uses far less solvents for reduction, if any. temperature range is adjusted by different activators.
and your local humidity--

if you can spray clear and have done so before, you know 1 to 2 coats of high solids will do. if polishing lightly 3 coats...if polishing like mad or you get runs or other defects in it, let each coat get tacky before the next coat. it is referred to as flashing off(of solvents) over here in the US.

as for CF surface preparation?? very lightly scuff the surface just to remove the shine and the clear will stick like nobody's business LOL

if you get insects or dirt in your clear, pick it out while it is wet, and add another coat once it flashes off needles and toothpicks can pick dirt out,and tape sticky side down can pull a run off and then keep clearing. you will need to polish like crazy after but it can be done and fixed and NOT recoated

CarbonFiberCreations

do you need to have some kind of paint booth for spraying without dust in the paint?

I just had the first try with painting CF part and it was full of dust... of course because my garage is full of dust..
 but I'm not sure if cleaning could be enough or if I need to plan building some kind of paint booth.. any advice?


Alessandro

sweep it out, then blow it out,and then wet everything with a hose and water. if the air temps are down you can have humidity issues. make sure you
get cool temperature activators. and let the coats get dry...almost before the next coat. if you touch the clear and when you pull away it leave strings of clear like spider's silk, then it is ready for next coat. dont lay the part on cardboard,as that is a major dust magnet.
CF probably has static electrcity issues...if it does before spraying mix some water and alcohol in a spray bottle and lightly spray the part and that will
discharge the static electricity. then wipe it clean

scott

CarbonFiberCreations

Hi Scott

Water and alcohol is a good static charge eliminator? What ratio? I was thinking of getting a anti static gun, real expensive.

I like this method better if it works. Can you explain how you found this out and how you use it in your auto refinishing.

Thanks

red

woot! PPG had a product to wipe down raw plastic bumpers before sealing and refinishing, it was alcohol and water. it was a low VOC product and
it did not eat into the Mazda factory primer on the new bumper covers from Mazda.
not sure of ratio, maybe try 50/50 and see how it does?i suppose more alcohol would be ok or 100% as well, it will evap fast.
i could feel the static field diminish as i sprayed it. wierd !
i think glass cleaner will do the same as well. painting auto plastic bumpers has all kind of problems LOL.
seems to me we get the same issues with new FG truck parts as well, all sanded and clean and static. i suppose one could also ground the underside of the part and the floor as well???



scott

CarbonFiberCreations

it is called MX 192 "Refinish technology from PPG Industries, a world leader in automotive .... MX192 Plastic Cleaner is a multi-purpose product developed for use as an anti-static ... is a transparent product specifically designed for use on automotive bumpers ..."

CarbonFiberCreations