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morepower
morepower
posted 9 Years Ago
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Another mould that cracked so I had to make a new mould. I have had enough of the wet lay moulds I had made cracking up so it looks like ALL of them will be remade in Pre-preg tooling.
There is some release agent residue on the master and the mould here but a quick polish and it will be as good as ever.
I had to remake a fuel tank side after I made a mistake and missed an issue left on the tank I used to remake the mould. It came out great too.. Both moulds were made over two days and that was not a rush as I wanted to let the surface debulk overnight.
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Fasta
Fasta
posted 9 Years Ago
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It could be the moulds cooling as someone said?
I have done lots of pre preg parts from wet laid moulds and not had this problem.
Have a done a bunch of 11ft?3.3m boat hulls where I unbolt part/end of the moulds to allow the hulls to self release as the moulds cool. Seems to work really well. When cooled/released the hull would stick out mould about 3-4mm.
When I have tried to release the parts while hot it works but I always feel the parts seem difficult to pull and release. Letting them self release with the cooling/shrinking works well.
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morepower
morepower
posted 9 Years Ago
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Fasta (07/03/2016)
It could be the moulds cooling as someone said?
I have done lots of pre preg parts from wet laid moulds and not had this problem.
Have a done a bunch of 11ft?3.3m boat hulls where I unbolt part/end of the moulds to allow the hulls to self release as the moulds cool. Seems to work really well. When cooled/released the hull would stick out mould about 3-4mm.
When I have tried to release the parts while hot it works but I always feel the parts seem difficult to pull and release. Letting them self release with the cooling/shrinking works well.
The problem is when you have a multi section mould that has zero draft or has sections that are on 3 or 4 faces so if the mould shrinks it actually gets tighter round the part and it cannot self release.. The dive bottle cover is one part where there is zero draft and it locks in so tight that the best way is to actually ramp UP the temperature 10 degrees just before you remove the part! The fuel tank moulds also get clamped down upon when the mould cools and as it is 4 or 5 sections the time it takes to remove all the sections is too long to remove it all before it starts to shrink. In both cases the moulds crack. I have done a few parts from one piece moulds that will self release when they cool. Great when it happens but almost all of mine will not self release so wet lay tooling shrinking is my worst nightmare.
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Asurada
Asurada
posted 8 Years Ago
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Hi buddy,I am from China, I like Honda motorcycle, Indonesian the latest new Honda CBR250RR, I plan to refit the motorcycle, especially part of the tank, for epoxy resin corrosion problem of petrol I have been online to find the problem, how did you handle it? Corrosion protection has been handled? There are layers in the tank, I expected placement 5 layer, a layer of the surface layer and four-layer volume level. For moulding process of carbon fiber and resin flow forming technology I am more skilled, I myself had a hand trolley, use the diversion process, produced, taking into account the wear problem, I spray a matte color car paint.
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Hanaldo
Hanaldo
posted 8 Years Ago
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If you use a phenol novolac epoxy to coat the insides of the tank then you won't have any problems with petrol or ethanol attacking the resin.
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