Carbon Fiber Goalie helmet (field hockey)


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Matthieu Libeert
Matthieu Libeert
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Ok Matt,


Thanks for helping me out,

So maybe I'll first explain the whole proces in full detail on how I've worked.

1. The product I want to reproduce was the helmet and it's backplate (top of this topic)
2. I've waxed the helmet 5 times I think with TR 104 High temp mouldrelease
3. I've mixed some vinylester gelcoat (transparent) and added some colour (red)
4. Second layer of gelcoat once it got tacky
5. Put polyester on the gelcoat
6. First layer of Fiberglass with gelcoat
7. many more layers for a strong mould

LET IT CURE FOR 2 DAYS

8. Sanded the mould smooth with sanding paper grid 600-1000-1200
9. Pollished with your Pollishing liquid (Pollarshine C20 and Pollarshine F05

TWO WEEKS PASSED BY

9. I've did a first test with just 2 thin layers of fiberglas (no vac bagging) and polyesterresine to test for the finnish
10. Product came out how I've wanted and Finish is good

ONE WEEK PASSED BY (no smell)

Waxed the model with the same mouldrelease 6layers I guess ( waiting for it till it dries and pollish smoothly by hand in circular movents)
11. Mixed gelcoat and apply
12. Mixed gelcoat layer 2
13. Brush epoxy (IN expoxy)
14. Add first layer of reinforcement)
15. more layers with where added
16. Bagged everything and part came out very difficulty
17. The part was strong and firmly bonded together but the first layer of gelcoat (layer on top) was still jelly and sticky

THE FIRST LAYER OF GELCOAT DIDN'T CURE (probably my mistake whrong measurement of A+B)

18. Started again and mixed everything very precisely A+B and mixed it with a plexi stick (mixed for 5min by hand in a cup, stirring in all directions and scraping the entire cup from up till down)
19. Apply first layer of gelcoat and waited for 3h (in my garage at around 20degree) everything cures and got tacky 
20. New epoxy gelcoat and applied on top of the first one. 
21. waited for it to get tacky
22. add first layer of epoxy IN and put all reinforcement materials on top

TIME FOR DEMOULDING AFTER 26h under Vacuum (bagged)

23. Had to hammer the part out with a wedge and hammer because everything was firmly stucked together.
24. I Hear some cracking sounds and got more careful
25. the part comes out but there is hardened out gelcoat sticking on the mould and missing pieces on my part.



EXTRA

- The fact is I have some experience with infusion and bagging and so on and everything went perfect (vinylester mould, waxed, added all materials, bagged, came out perfectly I.E carbon car model few comment above this one).
- I'm surely not saying this is EC products it doesn't work out now BigGrin it's just that I want to know for myself WHY it doesn't work out, so I can learn out of it and not making the same mistakes...

- Thanks again for the time all of you spend helping people out!

Hope I've answered many of your questions this way, I've you have more just ask Wink

Matthieu Libeert
Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports
website:
www.mat2composites.com




Matthieu Libeert
Matthieu Libeert
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 955, Visits: 3.4K
it's been a while,

I haven't been working on the helmet since a long time but now i'm going to finnish it Smile
I will need some advice...

I didn't used any gelcoat this time. 
The problem I have are some dryspots. I've seen the movie with the kayak on how to repear small areas.
Should I put some extra resin to fill the dry spots, then sand the whole helmet, then use a clearcoat and pollish?

I won't use the helmet because I've made a "little" designmistake in the beginning of the project; I've used the "strongest resin"
I should have used a flexible resin to absorb the impacts on the helmet. Still have the mould so will be for the next helmet Smile

Can someone tell me how I should finnish it?  
heres a videotutorial on how the helmet was made.



Matthieu Libeert
Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports
website:
www.mat2composites.com




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