All valid points and questions, will try to answer them as best I can

Spraying the GC50 does require a certain technique but no more than spaying clear coat correctly. Setting the gun is key.
Generally I spray at between 50 and 60 psi, much will depend upon the individual compressor. I start spraying off the mould and feed onto the mould and feed off the mould before releasing the trigger. This way you avoid drips/blobs of gelcoat dropping onto the mould. If this does happen its not the end of the world as GG50 unlike most gelcoats actually cures hard if left overnight. Then any blobs can be carefully flatted back with 1200's without affecting the final finish.
Because of the size of the nozzle it does lay down with a slight orange peel finish. This doesn't affect the final finish if its not applied too thickly.

Not the best of pictures but hopefully you can see the slight orange peel finish.

I aim for a thickness of 0.2-0.4mm, tests I have done show very little difference in final part weight over clear coat. Certainly not enough to make any difference on cosmetic parts. If weight is critical then I wouldn't use either.

The small amount of spray tack needed to hold the cloth in place is such that I don't feel it has a detrimental affect on the bond between the GC50 and the epoxy. Certainly no more than the layer created by the adhesion promoter needed when using a 2k clear. I've had no issues with delamination.
As previously mentioned 90% of the time I use the GC50 to hold the cloth in place so spray tack isn't required.

Hope that answers some of your questions. Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd

Hi All

Hi Craig, is there any part of that Westy that isn't going to be CF? be careful it may blow away in a strong wind
Nothing on the spray tack yet, sent an email to the company yesterday asking for an update. Will keep you posted.

Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd

Is that company Italian by any chance Warren? 

Hi guys,

Just jumping back to the discussion in relation to the Aerofix 3, which Elite Composites distributes to Hanaldo (thanks for sharing the information and for your support mate!).

Firstly, to clarify: the manufacturer that was formerly known as Umeco, has recently undergone a merger, and is now known as Cytec.

The product is, in our experience, fantastic, and is most certainly compatible with Vinyl Ester, Poly Ester and Epoxy Resin, HOWEVER, the manufacturer does state to conduct individual testing.

I suspect that if you are experiencing issues with IN2 infusion resin and you are indeed using the same version of Aerofix 3 (there is also obviously an Aerofix 1 and Aerofix 2 in existence!), perhaps it may not be compatible with IN2.

We have tested several different infusion epoxies, with outstanding success, with and without in mould coatings.

Further to pictures that Hanaldo has provided, these pictures are of a part we made with Aerofix 3 with no in mould coating and has not been polished, sanded, cleaned...just pulled from the mould and trimmed. In one picture, you can see the part immediately after removal from the mould. Please excuse the mess in the shop that day!

For the cost of a single can, which is enough to produce several of these bootlids, I strongly advise to buy one and do some tests yourself!


Cheers!

Phill
Elite Composites

Hi Phill

Hi Craig,

I am sure you will find the Aerofix 3 is the business. If you have less than expected results, it might be worth also trying another infusion resin, as we are certainly getting great results.

On this particular bootlid, as the tail lights were moulded into the carbon fibre component, we elected to make the join in the carbon fabric a 'feature' rather than a 'fault' and highlight the fact that the headlights were now moulded from carbon fibre. We cut some 45 degree strips of regular Twill weave 199gsm carbon fabric and placed them carefully along the join line before laying on the main sections of fabric. This technique is really only possible in infusion processing when using a good quality spray adhesive, such as Aerofix 3.

The real trick is to stick 2 layers of fabric together with spray adhesive BEFORE you cut the 45 degree strips from it. Two layers together is far more stable and easy to handle without fraying. It still takes a great deal of skill to ensure perfect and neat results, but all things can be done with a little practice and the right equipment!

Hopefully we will get a chance to make some tutorial videos in the near future to cover this technique in more depth.

Cheers.

Phill
www.elitecomposites.com.au

Hi All

Hi All

Yeh I always seal up my split moulds with silicone before bagging them to save resin being leached through the split. Then just add 50 grams to your resin calculations to allow for the resin that leaks out into the flanges.