I agree with ChrisR... Diolene is a better option for the bottom layer, from a cost/benefit perspective.  (and cutting/trimming the edges.)

I did not have problems with print through of the core material in my mudguards, but doing a fully cured infusion, and then adding a core + cover layer will get around that problem for sure.

The first batch of my 18" mudgards were made with no gelcoat, as they were meant to be painted and clearcoated anyway, they were infused directly, i one go, 3 layers of CF + core strips..

I cut/chamfered  the edge of the soric with a scalpel-blade at a shallow angle for the front mudguard, but not for the rear which has a sharper radius on the edge. At the time I did not notice any print through on any of the mudguards.

The next set will be made with EC Pro-finish and a "V-pattern" down the middle, and translucent green clearcoat ... I think I will infuse without the core and then add it afterwards, just to make sure not to get print-through. 

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Thanks for the quick reply,




It makes sense with the sandwich core, I just wanted to make sure.




I'll have a look for that thread and see if it's any help.

As you say with extra reinforcement, I would probably wet-lay if needed.




Cheers,

David

Just be aware that using 2 layers of reinforcement does not necessarily prevent the core printing through. The best way to prevent print through is to ensure the resin is fully cured (so if it's colder than 25 degrees, cure for longer than 24 hours) and ideally post cure as well. Unfortunately bulker mats like Soric and 3D pet core do tend to end up printing through a bit.