4" intake pipe


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wozza
wozza
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Hanaldo (10/04/2014)
$17 for the one I linked, so pretty cheap really. 

Will finish this current pipe off tomorrow and get started on the next one! 



That's pretty good and should last a while.Smile
Once I get back into work I plan on having a go using an existing split mould but using carbon sleeve over a bladder wet laid. Will hopefully speed up production and avoid the jointing issues.

Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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$17 for the one I linked, so pretty cheap really. 

Will finish this current pipe off tomorrow and get started on the next one! 
wozza
wozza
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Hanaldo (10/04/2014)
Ah-ha! Something like this Warren?




Yep. Its not cheap but because it is hardened a bit like spring steel you can use it multiple times before it needs replacing. I usually cut them to size/shape before infusion using the flange as a template. The really thin stuff you can cut with a Stanley knife. It cuts through fingers easily if your not careful. I bend the outer edge over at 90 degrees to form a blunt edge so you can push it in without ending up in casualty.w00t

Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
Edited 11 Years Ago by wozza
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Hmmm, might have to look around for something more suitable. The galvabond is only 0.55mm thick, but I wouldn't be able to cut it with scissors. Aly foil? BigGrin
wozza
wozza
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Hanaldo (10/04/2014)
Laugh 



I understand the bagging, I just wanted to see how you're doing the steel shims. Saves asking a million questions trying to picture it in my head Tongue Really all I'm unsure about is what you mean when you say shim steel, is that a type of steel or do you mean you're using a thin steel sheet as shims? Could I use 0.55mm galvabond sheet? And I presume you cut it to cover the entire flange, not ust the part underneath the carbon being sanded?



The only downside I can see with this method is it's going to make a helluva lot of dust... My only method for extraction is my out-door table with a fan pointed at my neighbours fence Laugh


Sorry will try and explain better. Always had this problem when I worked as a service engineer. Different countries have different technical terms. Yes shim steel is very thin steel sheet, you can get in various thicknesses, it is used for things like setting pre loads on bearings etc. If you allow for the extra thickness in your mould then any thin sheet steel will do. It is only there to protect the flange on the mould. I use shim steel because you can cut it with a pair of scissors, easier for shaped flanges and slides under the part easily.
You can always remove the parts from the mould and trim off the bulk of the excess first before putting them back in the mould to reduce the amount of dust. But your extraction sounds fine as long as I am not your neighbour.BigGrin

Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Laugh 



I understand the bagging, I just wanted to see how you're doing the steel shims. Saves asking a million questions trying to picture it in my head Tongue Really all I'm unsure about is what you mean when you say shim steel, is that a type of steel or do you mean you're using a thin steel sheet as shims? Could I use 0.55mm galvabond sheet? And I presume you cut it to cover the entire flange, not ust the part underneath the carbon being sanded?



The only downside I can see with this method is it's going to make a helluva lot of dust... My only method for extraction is my out-door table with a fan pointed at my neighbours fence Laugh
wozza
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Hanaldo (10/04/2014)
Thanks Warren, I'll give that method a go for my next pipe.

Have you got any pictures, by chance?


Come on!!! I am not going to make it too easy for you.Tongue

Not sure what pictures I have but will have a look. Which part would help most, the bagging?

Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
Hanaldo
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Thanks Warren, I'll give that method a go for my next pipe.

Have you got any pictures, by chance?
wozza
wozza
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Hi, I am not saying this is the only way but this is the method I use for similar parts.

Once the two halves have cured I leave them in the moulds and remove the mesh and peel ply. I then cut strips of thin shim steel the same size/shape as the flanges. Slide the shim steel between the part and the mould. Then using the orbital sander, carefully sand through the excess material on the flange down to the shim steel. The shim steel is only there to protect the mould. You now have two perfectly matching halves. Because the shim steel is so thin the dimensions should be almost unchanged. (you could allow for this in your mould if it is critical)
I then use gaffer/tank tape along the split/join line to hold the two halves together and in line.
I then cut strips of cf 25mm wide, lay it on some bagging film and wet through with resin. Carefully lay the strips half and half over the inside join line and allow to cure. Remove the tape, clean off any excess resin on the seen side and polish.
I don't think bagging is necessary as the above method produces a strong join. But you can bag it by making a tube out of bagging film. Make the tube at least twice the length of the part. Push it up the inside of the tube, then pull it back over the outside of the tube like a sausage skin and seal the ends with gum tape to enclose the part. That way when you pull vac equal pressure will be applied to the inside and outside of the part keeping the join in line.
Hope that makes sense.

Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
Edited 11 Years Ago by wozza
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