Group: Forum Members
Posts: 688,
Visits: 5.4K
|
Hi, I am not saying this is the only way but this is the method I use for similar parts.
Once the two halves have cured I leave them in the moulds and remove the mesh and peel ply. I then cut strips of thin shim steel the same size/shape as the flanges. Slide the shim steel between the part and the mould. Then using the orbital sander, carefully sand through the excess material on the flange down to the shim steel. The shim steel is only there to protect the mould. You now have two perfectly matching halves. Because the shim steel is so thin the dimensions should be almost unchanged. (you could allow for this in your mould if it is critical) I then use gaffer/tank tape along the split/join line to hold the two halves together and in line. I then cut strips of cf 25mm wide, lay it on some bagging film and wet through with resin. Carefully lay the strips half and half over the inside join line and allow to cure. Remove the tape, clean off any excess resin on the seen side and polish. I don't think bagging is necessary as the above method produces a strong join. But you can bag it by making a tube out of bagging film. Make the tube at least twice the length of the part. Push it up the inside of the tube, then pull it back over the outside of the tube like a sausage skin and seal the ends with gum tape to enclose the part. That way when you pull vac equal pressure will be applied to the inside and outside of the part keeping the join in line. Hope that makes sense.
Warren
Carbon Copies Ltd
|