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wozza
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Looking good  Can you not just leave the cloth out of the end sections? I assume they are cut off anyway on the finished part. Would make lay up and de-moulding easier with less chance of bridging. Sorry this a bit late in your case. On open ended parts like that I make the pattern 20mm or so longer than the finished part. That way you don't need to lay-up the ends and you can trim to length once the two halves are bonded together. Warren
Carbon Copies Ltd
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Hanaldo
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Yeh I think next time I might cut it out after placing it. I was more concerned about pulling the weave out of place, but I think if I were to make this mould again I would put the barrier up and around that end so they aren't there at all. Would be harder to envelope bag though.
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Hanaldo
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I have unfortunately hit a bit of a snag with this project, perhaps someone here has a solution. I need to have 2 threaded fittings in this pipe, one for the breather return and one for the turbo pressure recirculation valve. These need to be M20x1.5. My original plan had been to bond in an 80mm section of 50x10mm aluminum flat bar, which I was going to bend into shape to fit nicely inside the pipe. Unfortunately this is proving to be much harder than I realised, and I can't bend the flat bar at all. In fact I can't even have it professionally bent, as this size flat exceeds the capacity of the local metal shops roller. Is there another way I can get the threaded fittings I need into this pipe?
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wozza
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If you have access to a lathe or machine shop you could use a similar method to the catch tank I did. Drill and tap some 25mm OD Ally or Nylon bar with the threads you need. Radius one end with a Dremmel or similar to match the radius of the intake tube and bond them on. If you don't have access to a lathe you could use M20 nuts.
Warren
Carbon Copies Ltd
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Hanaldo
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Thanks Warren. I don't have access to either of those, but would it be needed? Could I not use a vice to hold the rod and then drill and tap it that way? Or better yet, bond it in first, then drill and tap once it is fixed in place? As for the nut method, I'm not totally sure how that would work? How would I bond it in without filling the threads with adhesive? And how would I separate the nut from the carbon to avoid galvanic corrosion? Would one layer of woven glass cloth layed up on the pipe be enough?
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ajb100
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Does it have to be threaded or could you use push fit? My thoughts would be to use something like:
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Hanaldo
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I could use those fittings for my current application, but I plan to be using steel braided teflon hose when this pipe goes on.
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ajb100
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You can still use rubber and Teflon aseroquip hose as push fit if it's not under pressure. Tiglon doesn't stretch as much as the rubber does but it still works. I don't know if you've seen the jubilee clips with the fake red and blue threaded parts over them so they look like aseroquip fittings
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Hanaldo
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Yeh I know, I've just always considered it a little 'cheap'. I'll keep it in mind if I can't find a solution, but I would prefer the flexibility that a threaded fitting would provide. I will be doing all the intercooler piping anyway, so I will need to figure out threaded fittings eventually. How would I avoid GC with those fittings? I imagine they are made from an alloy, so how would I separate them from the carbon?
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wozza
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Hanaldo (28/03/2014)
Thanks Warren. I don't have access to either of those, but would it be needed? Could I not use a vice to hold the rod and then drill and tap it that way? Or better yet, bond it in first, then drill and tap once it is fixed in place? As for the nut method, I'm not totally sure how that would work? How would I bond it in without filling the threads with adhesive? And how would I separate the nut from the carbon to avoid galvanic corrosion? Would one layer of woven glass cloth layed up on the pipe be enough? Yes you could cut the threads by hand. M20 is quite a large thread and requires a fair amount of force to cut it, I would certainly do it before bonding them on. I just filled the threads with filleting wax before bonding them on then ran the tap down to clean the threads out once cured. I wouldn't worry too much about GC. I doubt it will have an effect over the life of the part. Many CF parts are bolted or riveted in place with steel and ally fasteners without problems. I have made sandwich panels with ally inserts in the lay up without problems. I just thought using nuts would be a quick and inexpensive option. You can also get thinner half nuts if you prefer. Warren
Carbon Copies Ltd
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