4" intake pipe

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4" intake pipe

4" intake pipe

Author	Message
wozza	wozza posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 688, Visits: 5.4K	Hanaldo (29/03/2014) Yes. Won't affect flow at all, not with a 4" pipe at the velocity the air is moving. With respect I would disagree, but I have been wrong before Warren Carbon Copies Ltd
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Hanaldo	Hanaldo posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 28K	Yes. Won't affect flow at all, not with a 4" pipe at the velocity the air is moving.
	Reply Like 3
wozza	wozza posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 688, Visits: 5.4K	Hanaldo (29/03/2014) Well the reason I like the idea of drilling and tapping after bonding them in, is I'd like to be able to bond them in using Areldite 2014, and then put a couple of layers of carbon over the back and vac bag it. That way I've got the support of the carbon on the back too? Does that mean you are planning on having the threaded inserts on the inside of the tube not the outside? Would of thought that would have a negative effect on the air flow? Warren Carbon Copies Ltd
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Hanaldo	Hanaldo posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 28K	Well the reason I like the idea of drilling and tapping after bonding them in, is I'd like to be able to bond them in using Areldite 2014, and then put a couple of layers of carbon over the back and vac bag it. That way I've got the support of the carbon on the back too?
	Reply Like 3
wozza	wozza posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 688, Visits: 5.4K	Hanaldo (28/03/2014) Thanks Warren. I don't have access to either of those, but would it be needed? Could I not use a vice to hold the rod and then drill and tap it that way? Or better yet, bond it in first, then drill and tap once it is fixed in place? As for the nut method, I'm not totally sure how that would work? How would I bond it in without filling the threads with adhesive? And how would I separate the nut from the carbon to avoid galvanic corrosion? Would one layer of woven glass cloth layed up on the pipe be enough? Yes you could cut the threads by hand. M20 is quite a large thread and requires a fair amount of force to cut it, I would certainly do it before bonding them on. I just filled the threads with filleting wax before bonding them on then ran the tap down to clean the threads out once cured. I wouldn't worry too much about GC. I doubt it will have an effect over the life of the part. Many CF parts are bolted or riveted in place with steel and ally fasteners without problems. I have made sandwich panels with ally inserts in the lay up without problems. I just thought using nuts would be a quick and inexpensive option. You can also get thinner half nuts if you prefer. Warren Carbon Copies Ltd
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Hanaldo	Hanaldo posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 28K	Yeh I know, I've just always considered it a little 'cheap'. I'll keep it in mind if I can't find a solution, but I would prefer the flexibility that a threaded fitting would provide. I will be doing all the intercooler piping anyway, so I will need to figure out threaded fittings eventually. How would I avoid GC with those fittings? I imagine they are made from an alloy, so how would I separate them from the carbon?
	Reply Like 4
ajb100	ajb100 posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 346, Visits: 4.4K	You can still use rubber and Teflon aseroquip hose as push fit if it's not under pressure. Tiglon doesn't stretch as much as the rubber does but it still works. I don't know if you've seen the jubilee clips with the fake red and blue threaded parts over them so they look like aseroquip fittings
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Hanaldo	Hanaldo posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 28K	I could use those fittings for my current application, but I plan to be using steel braided teflon hose when this pipe goes on.
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ajb100	ajb100 posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 346, Visits: 4.4K	Does it have to be threaded or could you use push fit? My thoughts would be to use something like: https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/samco-hose-kits/self-sealing-take-off-s Then use a flexible adhesive like 515 for the insert to seal to. The pipe isn't under pressure so it doesn't even need to be air tight
	Reply Like 4
Hanaldo	Hanaldo posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 28K	Thanks Warren. I don't have access to either of those, but would it be needed? Could I not use a vice to hold the rod and then drill and tap it that way? Or better yet, bond it in first, then drill and tap once it is fixed in place? As for the nut method, I'm not totally sure how that would work? How would I bond it in without filling the threads with adhesive? And how would I separate the nut from the carbon to avoid galvanic corrosion? Would one layer of woven glass cloth layed up on the pipe be enough?
	Reply Like 3