AB Performance Sabre Racer - Complete Bodywork in Carbon

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AB Performance Sabre Racer - Complete Bodywork in Carbon

AB Performance Sabre Racer - Complete Bodywork in Carbon

Author	Message
wildcard	wildcard posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 40, Visits: 406	Looks great.
	Reply Like 4
wozza	wozza posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 688, Visits: 5.4K	Nice work, is it going on a G1 or a G2 ? Warren Carbon Copies Ltd
	Reply Like 3
Teem	Teem posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 6, Visits: 19	wozza (08/04/2014) Nice work, is it going on a G1 or a G2 ? Warren Both. (He said crossing his fingers...) T
	Reply Like 5
wozza	wozza posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 688, Visits: 5.4K	Teem (09/04/2014) wozza (08/04/2014) Nice work, is it going on a G1 or a G2 ? Warren Both. (He said crossing his fingers...) T Are you connected to AB or is this totally separate? Had a chance to look over the car whilst exhibiting at Stoneleigh last year, beautifully engineered and some really nice design touches. Warren Carbon Copies Ltd
	Reply Like 5
Ragged99	Ragged99 posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 7, Visits: 106	Tim Has a G2 car and mine is a G1. No we're not linked to AB, except Andy Bates is a mate, and we're both long time happy customers. The car is indeed beautifully engineered and on a par with much large players in the industry, the quality puts some much better know manufacturers in the shade. Cheers Adrian
	Reply Like 4
Ragged99	Ragged99 posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 7, Visits: 106	I should say the complete set of moulds is now complete for the bodywork created so far, including end fences and so on. So with a first pull of polyester complete we are now ready to rock for the infusion process. I'm consequently doing a test of a complex resin infusion shape, in the form of my airbox, for which I'm currently finalising the buck. Which is incidentally sitting on my G1 bodywork. This needs to have some returns underneath the shape, and I will clearly need a two part mould for the part because of the recess. So my plan was to glue the buck on a sheet of melamine board and make a two part mould in the normal way with large flanges sticking out horizontally from the lower edge as it's shown in the photo. Then when the mould is made cut another sheet of board so that it has a hole about 1 inch smaller all around than the footprint of the buck. This should give me an "internal" return edge. Cover this second board with release tape. Then when laying up the mould, tack the carbon down into the top moulds without the base plate in place. and trim back to edge with a couple of inches over lap, and if necessary snip the overhang edges to allow them to fold easily along the return Before fitting the baseboard , tack some carbon tape in place for the internal flange. Then fit the board and carefully lay the carbon in place from the other half in place. Then stack and envelope vac bag it in the normal way. This seems a reasonable plan, but it is a fair bit of a faffing around to get a return edge, .... am I approaching this correctly? Will the epoxy infuse up and around the return edges? If I'm short of time I may go for an external return edge on the normal mould, but this will make fitting it to the parent panel a bit trickier. Cheers for the help. Adrian
	Reply Like 4
andygtt	andygtt posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 157, Visits: 1.2K	this is loosely how i do the return edges on my parts... if the areas are hard to get to when the mould is assembled i will often lay it into the mould section carefully and trim it right to the edge, then assemble and overlay the other side around 10mm... then if you do happen to have a void (it happens to me occasionally) then the resin still flows to the carbon edge and often fills the void and you end up with a slightly heavier part but the right shape.... much better than having a bridge that you then have to fill. great job so far, very impressive Ragged99 (15/04/2014) Then when laying up the mould, tack the carbon down into the top moulds without the base plate in place. and trim back to edge with a couple of inches over lap, and if necessary snip the overhang edges to allow them to fold easily along the return Before fitting the baseboard , tack some carbon tape in place for the internal flange. Then fit the board and carefully lay the carbon in place from the other half in place. Then stack and envelope vac bag it in the normal way. This seems a reasonable plan, but it is a fair bit of a faffing around to get a return edge, .... am I approaching this correctly? Adrian y) then the resin still flows to the carbon edge and often fills the void and you end up with a slightly heavier part but the right shape.... much better than having a bridge that you then have to fill. great job so far, very impressive Edited 11 Years Ago by andygtt
	Reply Like 4