4" intake pipe


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wozza
wozza
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If you have access to a lathe or machine shop you could use a similar method to the catch tank I did. Drill and tap some 25mm OD Ally or Nylon bar with the threads you need. Radius one end with a Dremmel or similar to match the radius of the intake tube and bond them on. If you don't have access to a lathe you could use M20 nuts.

Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
Edited 11 Years Ago by wozza
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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I have unfortunately hit a bit of a snag with this project, perhaps someone here has a solution.

I need to have 2 threaded fittings in this pipe, one for the breather return and one for the turbo pressure recirculation valve. These need to be M20x1.5. My original plan had been to bond in an 80mm section of 50x10mm aluminum flat bar, which I was going to bend into shape to fit nicely inside the pipe. Unfortunately this is proving to be much harder than I realised, and I can't bend the flat bar at all. In fact I can't even have it professionally bent, as this size flat exceeds the capacity of the local metal shops roller. 

Is there another way I can get the threaded fittings I need into this pipe?
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Yeh I think next time I might cut it out after placing it. I was more concerned about pulling the weave out of place, but I think if I were to make this mould again I would put the barrier up and around that end so they aren't there at all. Would be harder to envelope bag though. 
wozza
wozza
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Looking good Smile

Can you not just leave the cloth out of the end sections? I assume they are cut off anyway on the finished part. Would make lay up and de-moulding easier with less chance of bridging. Sorry this a bit late in your case. On open ended parts like that I make the pattern 20mm or so longer than the finished part. That way you don't need to lay-up the ends and you can trim to length once the two halves are bonded together.

Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
Edited 11 Years Ago by wozza
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Thanks mate Smile



For anyone interested, the stack was composed of 2 layers of 199gsm 2x2 twill carbon, then strips of the same fabric placed at 45* either end for strategic reinforcement. Then an additional 2 strips of uni close to each end where the hose clamps will be placed, followed by a final layer of the 199gsm carbon over the top.

The weight of the untrimmed part is 112 grams, and I can stand on it with no distortion. 
Edited 11 Years Ago by Hanaldo
Toffee
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Really nice work mate.
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Straight out of the mould:

10151258_10151922272472541_72065507_n.jp

1798414_10151922272582541_2069522104_n.j



Has some residue from the Frekote on it taking the sheen off, so will need to polish it up. Also had an issue with bridging on the straight end:



Luckily that's not too critical, I can just make that end a couple mm shorter if need be. Thought I had paid close enough attention to pushing the material into those corners, but obviously not. Will be more careful next time.


Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Thanks guys Smile 

It's taken some time, that's for sure. Flatting that plug down only to recoat it and do it all again was rather tiresome. But definitely worth it in the end. There was no damage to my plug in the process either, so I can make another set of moulds if I need to.

Have got the second half all bagged up, just in the middle of the leak down test but it appears to be all good to go. First time I've ever had a leak free bag first shot! So will demould the first part soon to see if it's ok, then probably do the other infusion before bed. Fun times! 
Matthieu Libeert
Matthieu Libeert
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Great work, and thanks for sharing some pictures! you've put a lot of work into this and is totally worth it seeing the results of your mould!

Matthieu Libeert
Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports
website:
www.mat2composites.com




carbonfibreworks
carbonfibreworks
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Quality work Hanaldo.
Chris

http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/97e08777-693c-4af1-a27a-86cf.png
GO

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