Idea Feasability


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worthidlj
worthidlj
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Hey peeps,

I'm probably a few years from actually doing any physical work and just looking for opinion on what I'm thinking is actually feasable

I'm really interested in classic/vintage cars and would love to do an Austin Seven 'Sport' in the future; possibly with composite framework/ panels!BigGrin

My inspiration is the Super Accessories Sport

Thes were originally made using 2x1" Ash frames covered in 20g Aluminium sheet mounted  onto the original chassis.

Now for the multitude of questions!!

1) What carbon fibre/ core setup would give comparable/ better properties for the Ash frame?

2) What CF setup would be comparible to 20g Aluminium?

3)If I were to make my own floor would this seem a reasonable setup (going from side that would be closest to the road):

   [Road Surface] Aramid/CF - CF - Core (Honeycomb or Other?) - CF - CF [Inside Car]

4) The floor would likely to be made of three sections to incorparate the transmission tunnel, what would be the best way to connect them that would allow them to be removed from the frame is need be? (i.e. bolted through metal sleeves or similar)

5) If it is possible to make a frame of CF/Core/CF; I would look to using vacuum resin infusion. If the part is a simple flat piece, like a U-shape, would a mould be needed or can it just be done on a flat surface with the underneath of the bag taped down?.

6) The body consists of a 4 piece boonett (for access to both sides of the engine bay, front panels, radiator cowling and main body; for the smaller pieces I would use a male mould but a female mould for the main body. What would the ideal material/methods be for creating these moulds?

7)If it is possible to create the frame and body parts as mentioned above, what would be the best way to attach the body to the frame sections; is it best to bond brackets to the body that can bolt to the frame (which allows parts to be remaoved/repaired if need be) or would you suggest something else?

Sorry for all the questions but I want to know if it's feasable at all as I've never worked with composites before and don't want to end up barking up the wrong tree.

Thanks for your time and patience.

Cheers,

David
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ChrisR
ChrisR
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Use Diolen, circa £6.50/m compared to £15-20/m, better bonding to the resin, doesn't fuzz up so much when cutting/finishing etc and used in kayaks etc for impact zones. OR post cure do a hot coat of rubber resin to the underside.

If putting zones of core in do a few samples to ensure you don't get print through to the surface, best way I've got around it is to let the top laminate cure fully then bond on the core and bottom layers after as you can get some distortion on the surface (but do your own tests)

Another option to add torsional rigidity to the panels is to add a few layers around the perimeter of 1/2in UD tape to create a torsion box  

worthidlj (08/10/2014)
 though maybe I can just use the single layer of Aramid underneath as it won't really be visible.

GO

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