Sealing a buck/plug


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tangotop
tangotop
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I'm currently making a buck to make a mould for a diffuser. Based around a wooden construction with a fibre board to get a good curve. I am wondering what a good sealer for this would be.

The base board is MDF... having already taken a mould for another part using MDF as a base I know that this will not absorb the resin. However I do need to get a reasonable finish to this area on this occation/

I have seen on other forums that some people use Bonda G4 water seal... which isn't easy sourced. Are there other alternative such as a concrete seal? What have others used... 

I also need to finish off the edges of the diffuser with a fillet or newplast before moulding commences so it will need to either go over or under this.

http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/9b63b802-8821-4ce0-89f7-e9ac.JPG
Edited 13 Years Ago by tangotop
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Matt (Staff)
Matt (Staff)
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I know we've just spoken on the phone about this but I'll put the same reply on the forum so it might assist others.

Generally, the way we seal our patterns (on our manufacturing side) is using 2k polyurethane filler primer sprayed liberally all over them and then flatting them back and sometimes spraying and flatting again. If you have access to a spray-gun (and a place to do the spraying) then this is the fastest way to seal a pattern. It also covers a multitude of sins (like polyester body filler!) that may have been used on the pattern.

Shellac sealer works really well on MDF (and just about any wood) and is a great option for those without spray facilities or who don't fancy the idea of spraying a 2k paint even if they do! - It's a much more friendly way to seal a wood pattern but it needs to be built up in several coats and flatted between each coat, making it slower going than an instant result filler/primer.

Never be tempted to user primers out of a rattle can (cellulose) 1-part type sprays. They just don't work right, the solvent leaches out of them for a long time and their bond to the pattern is so bad that if they don't ruin the release agent with their solvents they will still probably end up coming off the pattern and sticking to the mould anyway.

We did talk about the fact that you've put Plasticine fillets in the corners for your radiuses and the fact that I really wouldn't endorse spraying a primer (or any other mould sealer) over the top of a soft clay like this. The primer is almost guaranteed to crack through when you try to flat it. What I recommended was scraping the Plasticine (modelling clay) away and then replacing it with radiuses made from polyester body-filler. This will give you something much more sturdy underneath to seal over the top of.

I hope this helps and look forward to seeing some more updates!

All the best, Matt

Matt Statham
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Sales
Edited 13 Years Ago by Matt (Staff)
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