what clearcoat are you using?


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Pugsport
Pugsport
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just wanted to ask what clearcoat people are using? as in type and brand please

ive tried a few different types but never really been happy with them even with a flow coat 
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Duratec Sunshield is an outstanding product if you can source it where you are. 

Otherwise, I have used a number of regular automotive 2k clear coats,  and the two I find to be the best are Metalux VOC 4.2, and DNA Diamond Clear. Both of these are high solids, which I believe makes a far superior coating. They have outstanding gloss, flow out wonderfully, and both have excellent overspray blend and self-levelling properties, which translate into a much better finish off the gun and requires far less finishing work. 
Edited 9 Years Ago by Hanaldo
davro
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FLD
FLD
FLD
posted 9 Years Ago HOT
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If you're finding that you get little spots where the pin holes are then you need to brush coat a few layers on first to fill out the pin holes.  For this I use lacquer/activator/thinner 2:1:1.  After this I use an ultra high solids lacquer.  You need to be brave with this and get on with it as it goes on in just one coat.  Get it wrong and you have to flat it.  Once it's coated you'll need to leave it a while for the inevitable 'sink' into the pin holes.  Then just flat with 1200 and polish up. 

If this isn't the problem and it was just a 'whats best' Q then I use automotive 2k's as mentioned above.
Pugsport
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thanks guys for the comments and ill be sure to look up the products mentioned above. 

whats the devilbiss starting line gun like as i was looking for a new personal paint gun but was looking more at the SRI pro just because thats what ive used before and know they work well. i have also not used the Kapci coating clear before but have used their high build/filler primer which is good and not expensive

FLD (18/05/2016)
If you're finding that you get little spots where the pin holes are then you need to brush coat a few layers on first to fill out the pin holes.  For this I use lacquer/activator/thinner 2:1:1.  After this I use an ultra high solids lacquer.  You need to be brave with this and get on with it as it goes on in just one coat.  Get it wrong and you have to flat it.  Once it's coated you'll need to leave it a while for the inevitable 'sink' into the pin holes.  Then just flat with 1200 and polish up. 

If this isn't the problem and it was just a 'whats best' Q then I use automotive 2k's as mentioned above.


im not having an issue with pin holes as i just use an artists brush and dab some paint in them before i start to paint but i just can not seem to find a clear coat that really adds depth to the part even with flow coating parts 

ive painted a few sets of wheels and other small part and ive always had the same issue so i dont seem it being the epoxy resin thats doing it 

i also guess when you say 2K paint your referring to Acrylic enamel type paint?  



Hanaldo
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No, acrylic and enamels are 1k paints. They work OK for clear coating, but their durability and chemical resistance are non existent. 2k coatings are a resin and a hardener, generally polyurethanes. 
Pugsport
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Hanaldo (22/05/2016)
No, acrylic and enamels are 1k paints. They work OK for clear coating, but their durability and chemical resistance are non existent. 2k coatings are a resin and a hardener, generally polyurethanes. 


2K is not a paint type but refers to the fact that he paint system is a 2 part system ie needing a hardener to make the paint go off. 

yes Acrylic and Enamel paints are 1k paint and dry throw solvent evaporation but its Acrylic Enamel which is a two paint and most people in the car restoration industry dont like it as they say it looks plastic .

im not 100% sure but i thought Polyurethane paints were mainly primers. where as Acrylic Enamel paints were primer, direct gloss topcoats and clear coats    
Edited 9 Years Ago by Pugsport
Hanaldo
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Apologies, I read your previous post as acrylic OR enamel, so interpreted it as 1k. 

Have never come across acrylic enamel 2k paints here. Can probably get it if I searched for it, but everything here is either 1k acrylic or enamel, or 2k polyurethane (generally an acrylic based polyurethane, polyester polyurethane certainly isn't common). I prefer polyester 2k's myself, but they are special order and have an extremely short shelf life. 

Polyurethanes cover everything from primers to top coats to clear coats. These are definitely the most commonly used coating for composites work, and would wager they are substantially tougher than acrylic enamels. 
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