Westfield parts from a newbie

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Westfield parts from a newbie

Westfield parts from a newbie

Author	Message
Brian2fast	Brian2fast posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 79, Visits: 1.3K	Hi Hanaldo I put release tape along the edge of both halves of the tube handle. (I put tape back on the handle again just for the pic). Stick it with on overlap then use a Permagrit block to sand it back totally flush. Then run a thick bead of glue along all the edges, push them together then I used acetone to wipe the glue off the outside surface. When you remove the release tape it leaves a nice clean finish. I didn't sand or clear coat anything. I also glued 4 blocks on the inside of the handle and 4 on the handbrake shaft, sanded them to give a really tight fit. I'd say gluing tube together like this is ok for non structural things, wouldn't trust it for anything else. This is the headlight in the 2 part mould. The fabric was laid into the mould all in one. It was difficult to get a nice finish where the carbon overlapped itself in a bit of a swirl but I positioned the overlap at the bottom of the headlight where a big hole was cut through it afterwards. The key to getting a neat line where the 2 parts of the mould meet is to ensure when making the mould that the barrier/fence is nice and sharp meeting the pattern. I used a credit card to shape the wax. (Hope that makes sense!). Headlight seems were sanded with 1500 then polished up, no clear coat. I think we should have a thread for multi part moulds! Haha. There must be plenty of people on here with interesting moulds! Craig
	Reply Like 3
Warren (Staff)	Warren (Staff) posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Administrators Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 8.5K	Kevlar adds impact resistance to a laminate so a few layers of kevlar would overall allow a little more impact/flex before failure. Of course when it does eventually fail, the very strong nature of the kevlar fibres means it will stay in one piece. The problem with IVA/SVA and to an extent MoT is that a lot of the stuff around construction and materials used is very vague with lots of "opinion" on it being of "sound construction". So you are relying on the tester haveing a bit of knowledge, which they will on conventional materials but carbon is a bit specialist so you can understand the hesistancy. Warren Penalver Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
	Reply Like 8
Hanaldo	Hanaldo posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 28K	This is beautiful work. Your stuff with split moulds intrigues me. May I ask how you bonded everything together afterwards? Ie. your handbrake shaft and the headlights both have near seamless joins, did you bond them together and then sand them back and clear coat?
	Reply Like 9
Brian2fast	Brian2fast posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 79, Visits: 1.3K	Thanks for the nice comments. Warren. I'v never used kevlar before. Would a few layers reduce the risk of cracking or is it just for keeping things together for longer after cracks do appear? I know what you mean about the IVA and MOT people. I suspect an IVA person would fail it. I searched through the guide book but couldn't see anything relating to actual load requirements. I think I found an American government paper that stated 100kg for the brake pedal. My car was SVA'd 10 years and I'm quite friendly with my MOT man..... Craig
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TomDesign	TomDesign posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 454, Visits: 2.5K	That e-brake is unreal!!
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Warren (Staff)	Warren (Staff) posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Administrators Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 8.5K	Some brilliant work here! especially the fine detail and the insane obsession with using as much carbon as possible on the pedal box and handbrake set up! Awesome! The paranoia in me would recommend the usage of a couple of layers of kevlar in the layup for something like a pedal box to add a bit more impact resistance and help avoid cracks but your testing seems to have been pretty robust!! You and I both can see the parts are pretty likely to be very strong (and certainly stronger than some of the cheaper aftermarket ones) but i do wonder what some of the IVA and MoT testers would make of it? Warren Penalver Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
	Reply Like 8
Matthieu Libeert	Matthieu Libeert posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 955, Visits: 3.4K	Thanks for sharing and taking time to document everything! was a pleasure to read everything Really like that gold reflective stuff, gives it a futuristic look... keep going and keep posting pictures Matthieu Libeert Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports website: www.mat2composites.com
	Reply Like 9
wildcard	wildcard posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 40, Visits: 406	Beautiful parts, and nice write up.
	Reply Like 9
Brian2fast	Brian2fast posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 79, Visits: 1.3K	To make the tunnel pattern I welded up the base shape first so I knew the outer dimensions were bang on before getting creative with the curves. 2mm steel with 1/2" tube for the corners. Not very clear I'm afraid, but from the CAD model I then printed off 1:1 section slices through the curvy shape I wanted. Each profile was spaced 1/2" from the next. Then I used 1/2" thick foam glued together and a Permagrit sanding block to shape the curves. Car body filler layered on and sanded off. After the struggles I had with previous patterns I had coated with polyester resin and then 2 pack paint I was really happy after I used Easycomposites pattern coat and high gloss coat. Polished it up with my machine polisher. Last week I used a Unimould kit for the first time. Found it easy to work with and has resulted in a nice strong mould. Iv got a bit of tidying up to do before I can do an infusion. Craig
	Reply Like 8
Brian2fast	Brian2fast posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 79, Visits: 1.3K	Hi All These are the parts I'm working on this winter. Iv got a Hayabusa engine with a separate reverse gearbox. I have decided to remove reverse to save weight and reduce transmission shunt. I have a carbon transmission tunnel panel already (not made by me) but when I remove the reverse gearlever I'll have an unwanted hole in the panel. So using this as a good excuse to make more carbon bits I drew this up on CAD. A full carbon handbrake, gearlever and curvy panel to cover the handbrake and gearlever pivot. CAD view. Did the handbrake first. Cut the teeth off the old handbrake and used the old spring and rod, everything else is carbon. Little DU bearings for the pivots and the black bolts are chainring bolts for a mountainbike. Handle was an infusion from a 32mm diameter mould, bonded the 2 halves together. I wanted the handle to be removable so I only have to cut a narrow slot out of the panel that will cover the handbrake mechanism. The handbrake saved nearly 0.5kg over the old steel one. Solid carbon button cut out and shaped with a 1mm cutting disc in a grinder. Alu bolts fastening the handle in position. Ratchet re-used from old handbrake. The pawl is carbon but the very tip is steel. Work in progress of the gearlever. Using the same 32mm diamter handle as the handbrake. The blade of the lever is 2 plates of carbon spaced apart and glued together. the carbon lever will save nearly 0.25kg over the old steel one. Edited 11 Years Ago by Brian2fast
	Reply Like 9