Hi Skytiger,
You've got the plan right and I'm basically with Joe on the method. It depends how 'floppy' the headliner is in its own right as to how and when you go about the reinforcing process. I'm guessing it's a sort of felt on a high density board. My guess is that the board will have enough stiffness on its own to preserve the contours adequately even if you remove it unsupported. It will certainly go out-of-true once it's removed (i.e. sag/flop) but this should be easy enough to straighten up with some sort of framework on the other side (the side you don't need). Hopefully you'll get lucky and the felt/fabric will then be able to be scraped off the board - I've done a parcel shelf in just this way. If the felt/fabric does come away then scrape it all off and then see what you're working with, surface-wise. If it is just a high-density board of some description then wetting it with some polyester resin might be a good first step - the board will absorb some of the resin, creating a much harder (and nicer) surface to work with.
Like Joe says I think I would try to make the changes you want to make to the pattern. Making a mould of the pattern (the original) and then pulling a quick part in order to modify it and then make a mould and then make your final part is more work than neccessary and unless you're using a zero or nearly zero shrink system (i.e. not regular polyester/fibreglass) then you're just inviting the trouble as the 3-times-around part starts to pull away in shape from the original. If you sure-up the pattern you should be able to make all your modifications to that and then finish it ready to pull your final mould.
For the modifications I would go with PU or PVC foam and smooth/blend it with normal polyester bodyfiller. Don't use styrofoam or polystyrene because the polyester bodyfiller will attach and dissolve them. When you've got it pretty much there you can drop a heavy 2k PU filler/primer on there and give it a good flat. Often it's only once you get the whole thing sprayed a single colour that you can really see how good (or not good) it's looking and make reparations accordingly. You'll likely then do another hit with the PU filler/primer just so that you cover over ALL areas where you might have broken through it down into the (nasty!) polyester bodyfiller. When you pull the mould you really want that pattern to be looking as good as you want the finished part to look. Don't say to yourself that you'll fix issues 'on the mould' or worst still 'on the part' that's the wrong time to be putting any wobble/shape/polish right!
At that stage I would go with 6 applications of
Easy-Lease Chemical Release Agent onto the (nice, clean, glossy) PU paint, followed by 6 coats of
Number 8 Mould Release Wax. I would make the mould using either
Uni-Mould (which is a tooling gel coat, coupling coat, tooling resin) or our
Epoxy Tooling Gel Coat reinforced with
Woven Glass and
Epoxy Resin. For a mould of this shape/size there's no obvious winner out of these two. Go with the epoxy if you're fed-up of the smell of styrene by this point!
I hope this helps. I can give you advice on making the part itself but I think that might be enough for you to be getting on with for now!
Matt StathamEasy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Sales