Dust

Thanks CC. I wish I saw this post earlier, as I attacked it with automotive clear. There was a striking improvement, but no where near the surface quality and clarity of the resin infused laminates before I ruined them. I'll apply spin, and say it's a satin finished with a smoky coating to limit reflection.

No, water hides everything. Depending on what lacqquer you use (MS, HS, UHS) you will hide different levels of scratches. If it's pretty bad, I would think about using a layer of epoxy to fill everything. Then go up the grits 120,240,400,600. Then hit it with an MS, 600grit, another layer of MS. You wont get a good finish out of an aerosol, especially clear coat. In fact, you won't even get a good finish with an HPLV if you don't have a booth. If you can manage to find a way to line a small room with polythene sheet, you can get good results.

Hi Carbon. The main errors are the impurities in a thin top coat (minuscule bubbles - why didn't I degas!) and 120-grit scratches. Unfortunately, some one borrowed my camera cable - so not photos as of yet.

Have you got a photo of the part and said errors?

Just so you know, you wont get a good finish out of an aerosol. You might get somewhere, but will require some 1200 grit and polishing.

Plastidip is very heavy, what's you reasons for using it?

There are some tiny errors on my CFRP part and I would like to partially hide them with a final black tinted clear coat of some description with an aerosol can. I have never spray painted anything before and would like some advice of how to do it..

The CFRP part has had a final layer of clear epoxy gel coat, flattened with 120-grit wet and dry and finally 800-grit (no intermediate grit available at the moment).

Could you talk me through this? Do I use just standard plastidip black and then laquer?http://www.dipyourcar.com/forums/sho...llight-Tinting

Cheers!