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Ozonedge
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 7,
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Hi Guys, im new to this game and have started infusing. made two pieces with just infusion and one piece with GC50 and infusion. had issues with leaving surface in mold with infusion (ill ask about that on another thread) and sprayed the GC50 and after 4 attempts got it down without fish eyes. (how frustrating can it Be lol) Hi Warren, you obviously have had loads of experience with GC50, it came out of mold so easy which was great and was super glossy. but one thing i was not happy with, was compared to the straight epoxy infusion, it had a tarnished brown sort of look to the piece. not clear at all. i dont know if i over done the hardener quantity as im only mixing small amounts 80g or so but GC50 started to turn the colour once i mixed the hardener in. have you had this trouble in the past? by no means was it clear. ive just ordered some epoxy gel coat but would rather use the GC50 for its uv properties. Many thanks for sharing your knowledge. talk about learning from your mistakes, but always learning all the same. Mark
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Jess8bit
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Group: Forum Members
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As someone finally tested the roller with GC50 ? I really can't use the spray gun for one small part...
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wozza
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Group: Forum Members
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Hi Fred, it lays down really well with no beading or fish eyeing. The first time I used it I was really worried by the slight orange peel finish it has when sprayed. But once infused or even wet laid the part comes out like glass. 
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fgayford
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Group: Forum Members
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wozza (30/04/2013)
wozza (27/04/2013)
Fred, when you say Clear Coat I assume you mean Automotive Clear Coat. If you have spray equipment why not just spray a clear gelcoat like GC50 ? that way you can use easylease without the addition of wax, which to me defeats the object of using the chemical release agent in the first place. Regards Warren Hi Fred, sorry if my statement above sounded a wee bit harsh  It wasn't intended like that. We are all learning/finding techniques that work best for our given situation. I am now doing this full time and have to try and come up with ways to maximise my profits/income. Using the GC50 has really improved things for me. I try and get 4/5 moulds prepped with easylease and then spray them all in one go. Another thing I like about it is that after about three hours it is tacky enough to act like a spray tack. I can lay down my first layer of carbon into the moulds and it is held in place and nicely aligned. I can then continue with the rest of the stack on all the moulds at a more relaxed pace ready for infusion.The GC50 also gives me a hard glass like UV resistant finish straight from the mould.Previously I had to flat sand and use a 2K Clear to get the same results, much more time consuming. The bond between the GC50 and the Epoxy is far better than when I was using the 2K Clear.Nice to hear that you have a technique that works for you
Regards Warren No offence taken at all. I wish I could just shoot the mold with clear just like anything else. I didn't know this GC50 had UV resistance. I will have to look into it. Do you get any beading or fish eyes when spraying it? Fred
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wozza
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Group: Forum Members
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Visits: 5.4K
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Not tried it myself but EC are showing a "no loss" roller for Gel Coat/ Resin application. It is in the Tools section on the website. Maybe worth a call/email to technical and ask the question. Regards Warren
Carbon Copies Ltd
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GROPIUS
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 13,
Visits: 332
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Thanks peeps, So... ...whats the story for NOT using a Gelcoat at all in my moulds? I need to get the bits done as soon as possible  Did a test run with the GC50...What a pita to apply by brush... end result was kinda good apart from 2 little pin holes Somebody tried to roll it on?
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wozza
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 688,
Visits: 5.4K
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wozza (27/04/2013)
Fred, when you say Clear Coat I assume you mean Automotive Clear Coat. If you have spray equipment why not just spray a clear gelcoat like GC50 ? that way you can use easylease without the addition of wax, which to me defeats the object of using the chemical release agent in the first place. Regards Warren Hi Fred, sorry if my statement above sounded a wee bit harsh It wasn't intended like that. We are all learning/finding techniques that work best for our given situation. I am now doing this full time and have to try and come up with ways to maximise my profits/income. Using the GC50 has really improved things for me. I try and get 4/5 moulds prepped with easylease and then spray them all in one go. Another thing I like about it is that after about three hours it is tacky enough to act like a spray tack. I can lay down my first layer of carbon into the moulds and it is held in place and nicely aligned. I can then continue with the rest of the stack on all the moulds at a more relaxed pace ready for infusion.The GC50 also gives me a hard glass like UV resistant finish straight from the mould.Previously I had to flat sand and use a 2K Clear to get the same results, much more time consuming. The bond between the GC50 and the Epoxy is far better than when I was using the 2K Clear.Nice to hear that you have a technique that works for you
Regards Warren
Carbon Copies Ltd
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fgayford
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Group: Forum Members
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I was using automotive clearcoat over the chemical release. I got caught with the beading up but saved it with brushing. You keep brushing it flat untill the clear starts curing and then it will stay down. I have for small projects just brushed the clear on with this technic because I hate cleaning up the gun for such a small job. Once infused it looks perfect.
I only suggested wax because it reduces the chance of beading up.
I have come up with a spray technic that is working for me right over the chemical release.
1 I mix twice the recommended thinner into the clear coat and spray a fog coat. I turn the fluid feed needle in until nothing will come out of the gun and then open it up until I just get a fog like film comeing out.
2 set it aside for 15 minutes at a high room temperature ( not 5 fail not 10 fail but a full 15 minutes)
3 I now spray on another fog coat and wait another full 15 minutes
4 I spray another fog coat and wait again.(it will now be almost shiney)
5 I now spray with the gun open just abit more untill I have a shiney coat
I know it sounds like a lot of work but it does work and you get a perfect part precleared.
I wait overnight for the clear to set and then infuse next day.
Well that was a mouth full.
Hope it helps someone.
Fred
I got burned yesterday because I only waited 5 to 10 minutes. The clear softened the previous coat and the fish eyes opened up in the mold.
The fix was to get a painters brush out and keep brushing the fish eyed spot until the clear stayed down.
The part I pulled today was perfect.
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GROPIUS
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 13,
Visits: 332
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I'm quite concerned of using the GC50 now... ...I've been searching the forum and found some serious problems with it. Ok... If I would use my moulds (Vinylester/CSM plus Polyester Gelcoat) and NOT use any Gelcoat on the part (UV beside) at all, just using EPOXY after coats of EZlease... what are the chances of releasing the part without problems?
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wozza
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 688,
Visits: 5.4K
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Fred, when you say Clear Coat I assume you mean Automotive Clear Coat. If you have spray equipment why not just spray a clear gelcoat like GC50 ? that way you can use easylease without the addition of wax, which to me defeats the object of using the chemical release agent in the first place. Regards Warren
Carbon Copies Ltd
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