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Lester Populaire
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+xA quick update:  I did another test: Changed Epoxy ratio from 100/60 to 100/50 4 variations: 2 400gm 2 200gm one set in room temp (25) one set on the 3d printer heated bad (55) on the left is the heated one, on the right is the room temp Heated one had a wood failor which is the optimal result, but there is a spot on the corner where the lamination failed, how weird is that Anyway, The Epoxy is probably the problem doesn't cure well enough in room temp or something Careful with your mixing ratio there. Epoxies require quite precisely measured ratios to fully polymerize. Unlike some other resins where the hardener is a catalyst that just starts a chain reaction within the monomer, in an epoxy you need both components to crosslink. So stick as precisely as you can to the manufacturers instructions!
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The Mould Destroyer
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+x+xA quick update: I did another test: Changed Epoxy ratio from 100/60 to 100/50 4 variations: 2 400gm 2 200gm one set in room temp (25) one set on the 3d printer heated bad (55) on the left is the heated one, on the right is the room temp Heated one had a wood failor which is the optimal result, but there is a spot on the corner where the lamination failed, how weird is that Anyway, The Epoxy is probably the problem doesn't cure well enough in room temp or something Careful with your mixing ratio there. Epoxies require quite precisely measured ratios to fully polymerize. Unlike some other resins where the hardener is a catalyst that just starts a chain reaction within the monomer, in an epoxy you need both components to crosslink. So stick as precisely as you can to the manufacturers instructions! Yes of course, the 100/50 was recommended by the seller
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Rosta Spicl
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I recommend don't use lamination epoxy for bonding aplications. Use Epoxy based, 2K-PUR, MMA or MMA hybrid glues...the best for all the laminates bonding. I use these for high load constructions and it works great...
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Warren (Staff)
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Certainly I would Agree, go for a proper structural adhesive every time for bonding applications like this as the bond strength, especially for relatively small bonding surface areas, is much stronger.
If you were just bonding two large sheets together with only light structural expectations, then yes a resin over such a large surface area is probably strong enough. But for smaller areas, a dedicated structural adhesive will out perform a laminating resin.
Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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The Mould Destroyer
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+xCertainly I would Agree, go for a proper structural adhesive every time for bonding applications like this as the bond strength, especially for relatively small bonding surface areas, is much stronger. If you were just bonding two large sheets together with only light structural expectations, then yes a resin over such a large surface area is probably strong enough. But for smaller areas, a dedicated structural adhesive will out perform a laminating resin. Thank you! Just to clarify - the bonding is not the issue as is the laminated epoxy separating from the fabric For bonding - I will preform a peel test on a lot of different glues to see which one will be the best
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Warren (Staff)
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I do wonder if there is any legs in testing abrading a bit deeper in your case? almost down to the fabric.
Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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The Mould Destroyer
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+xI do wonder if there is any legs in testing abrading a bit deeper in your case? almost down to the fabric. Sorry, Can you elaborate a bit more? Didn't understand the sentence
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Hanaldo
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He means rather than bonding to the peel ply surface on the laminate, sand the laminate with 80 or 120 grit paper quite harshly until just before you hit the Diolen.
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Warren (Staff)
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Exactly Hanaldo, It might make a bit of a difference.
Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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The Mould Destroyer
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+xHe means rather than bonding to the peel ply surface on the laminate, sand the laminate with 80 or 120 grit paper quite harshly until just before you hit the Diolen. Thanks! I'ts a 2x 4 meters strip so its not practical for the current parts im building I switched to Kwik Kick and peel test came out great with the wood failing at a much higher peel force, with no heat, and a few hours set time to flip projects faster! Now I have to figure out the best glue / adhesive / secondary bonding agent There are so many options that I am so lost, and someone here mantined MMA and other stuff which threw me off even further
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