How can do a split mould on a saddle bag?


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J. P.
J. P.
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Hanaldo - 11/30/2020 3:17:45 AM
Your original finish didn't look very glossy to begin with? And it looks like you've used regular gelcoat rather than tooling gelcoat, which is ok but regular gelcoat does tend to have lower gloss retention than tooling gelcoat.

All of that said, it does look like you've had a minor release failure there as well. What release agent did you use?

This is the only gel coat the I kind find in my city... we are far away from everything... I paint the original but didn't put gloss coat, only sand with 600 papers... I use wax and liquid release.. but something didn't work well.

Otherwise this is my first proyect... too much to learn yet, and mistakes...  I put the geal coat without the release agent, when I notice I must to remove all with thinner, and star again, maybe this is the reason that the red color stick in the geal coat... novice mistake
Edited 4 Years Ago by J. P.
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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J. P. - 11/30/2020 11:12:52 PM
Hanaldo - 11/30/2020 3:17:45 AM
Your original finish didn't look very glossy to begin with? And it looks like you've used regular gelcoat rather than tooling gelcoat, which is ok but regular gelcoat does tend to have lower gloss retention than tooling gelcoat.

All of that said, it does look like you've had a minor release failure there as well. What release agent did you use?

This is the only gel coat the I kind find in my city... we are far away from everything... I paint the original but didn't put gloss coat, only sand with 600 papers... I use wax and liquid release.. but something didn't work well.

Otherwise this is my first proyect... too much to learn yet, and mistakes...  I put the geal coat without the release agent, when I notice I must to remove all with thinner, and star again, maybe this is the reason that the red color stick in the geal coat... novice mistake

Ah, yes this will do it - the thinners will soften the paint and make it very susceptible to chemical attack. Got away with it though, all you need is a quick sand with 1500 grit paper and compound it back to a decent gloss.

J. P.
J. P.
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Hi friends

I have some doubts, the first, how can do the piece open or close??, If I do open I can reach at the end of the bottom, but how can close??? or do I leave a left of dry fiber and when I close I must to try to reach for seal???and the second, how can refill the union problem??? with body filler???


Edited 4 Years Ago by J. P.
Dentex
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If I understand correctly you will do wet layup in open mould. 

In my opinion you should do every part separate and leave overlap so when you close mould, you can roll those overlaps and form joints to make 1 part piece. If that's what you are asking xD

If I am not correct I am sure someone else will correct me.
J. P.
J. P.
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Dentex - 12/1/2020 11:54:00 PM
If I understand correctly you will do wet layup in open mould. 

In my opinion you should do every part separate and leave overlap so when you close mould, you can roll those overlaps and form joints to make 1 part piece. If that's what you are asking xD

If I am not correct I am sure someone else will correct me.

This is what I think, sorry my english is not the best, I don't know if you understand me... but I understand you XD... what about the failure join, can I repair with body filler ??

GO

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