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J. P.
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+xIf I understand correctly you will do wet layup in open mould. In my opinion you should do every part separate and leave overlap so when you close mould, you can roll those overlaps and form joints to make 1 part piece. If that's what you are asking xD If I am not correct I am sure someone else will correct me. This is what I think, sorry my english is not the best, I don't know if you understand me... but I understand you XD... what about the failure join, can I repair with body filler ??
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Dentex
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If I understand correctly you will do wet layup in open mould.
In my opinion you should do every part separate and leave overlap so when you close mould, you can roll those overlaps and form joints to make 1 part piece. If that's what you are asking xD
If I am not correct I am sure someone else will correct me.
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J. P.
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Hanaldo
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+xYour original finish didn't look very glossy to begin with? And it looks like you've used regular gelcoat rather than tooling gelcoat, which is ok but regular gelcoat does tend to have lower gloss retention than tooling gelcoat. All of that said, it does look like you've had a minor release failure there as well. What release agent did you use?
This is the only gel coat the I kind find in my city... we are far away from everything... I paint the original but didn't put gloss coat, only sand with 600 papers... I use wax and liquid release.. but something didn't work well. Otherwise this is my first proyect... too much to learn yet, and mistakes... I put the geal coat without the release agent, when I notice I must to remove all with thinner, and star again, maybe this is the reason that the red color stick in the geal coat... novice mistake Ah, yes this will do it - the thinners will soften the paint and make it very susceptible to chemical attack. Got away with it though, all you need is a quick sand with 1500 grit paper and compound it back to a decent gloss.
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J. P.
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Group: Forum Members
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Your original finish didn't look very glossy to begin with? And it looks like you've used regular gelcoat rather than tooling gelcoat, which is ok but regular gelcoat does tend to have lower gloss retention than tooling gelcoat. All of that said, it does look like you've had a minor release failure there as well. What release agent did you use?
This is the only gel coat the I kind find in my city... we are far away from everything... I paint the original but didn't put gloss coat, only sand with 600 papers... I use wax and liquid release.. but something didn't work well. Otherwise this is my first proyect... too much to learn yet, and mistakes... I put the geal coat without the release agent, when I notice I must to remove all with thinner, and star again, maybe this is the reason that the red color stick in the geal coat... novice mistake
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Hanaldo
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Your original finish didn't look very glossy to begin with? And it looks like you've used regular gelcoat rather than tooling gelcoat, which is ok but regular gelcoat does tend to have lower gloss retention than tooling gelcoat.
All of that said, it does look like you've had a minor release failure there as well. What release agent did you use?
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J. P.
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Hanaldo
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With respect - I disagree. How it was made originally from metal is largely irrelevant, that is a different process entirely. From what I can see in these pictures, there is nothing that makes it impossible to do as one piece. More difficult yes, but certainly not impossible. I've done several similar parts in a similar fashion, and have no doubt it can be done. At least going from these photos anyway, if there is something I can't see in the photos then that's another story.
Anyway, as I said before: one or two piece construction doesn't matter, it can still be a 3 piece mould which is what the topic question was asking.
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torsten Ker
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the sides were important, not the photoshop line,
I would only leave a 2inch flange and on one side of the part to be bonded to the second with a semi rigid mould to allow flexibility on demoulding with care
That saddle bag is impossible to do in one mould no matter how many splits with infusion/hand-layup when looking at the shapes and recesses
If you look at the surface, it was welded together from 3 parts, bottom, and 2 sides.
there is another snag, the bottom has too deep recesses but with lots of chemical release agent and an gentle tap using a rubber mullet that should be OK
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Hanaldo
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+xand split the sides like this, thats how I did it, sorry no picktures, that was a teenage project for my own bike at the time :-)  Splitting it like this not only makes the straight draft an issue for release, but it also puts the flash line right down the middle of an aesthetically important area of the bag. Splitting it down the corners means that flash line is much easier to hide, and removes the problem of releasing from a deep draft section as the mould sections will be able to 'twist' away from the component. The flange at the bottom is not an issue, you lay the sections of mould up separately before bolting them together. For wet lay that is simple, for infusion it means measuring the thickness of the original and calculating the thickness of your reinforcement under vacuum consolidation. Easy to achieve on such a small component. Alternatively if you aren't confident laying it up as a single piece, then do it as 2 components and bond it together as you say - but that doesn't affect the mould. You only need a 3 piece mould here for sure. Whether you lay the piece up as a single piece or as separate pieces doesn't change that.
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