Elevating temperature during resin infusion curing process

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ahender	a ahender posted 4 Years Ago HOT Topic Details
a Group: Forum Members Posts: 38, Visits: 300	The infusion resin I now plan on using has a 2-hour pot life at 77 degrees F (basically room temperature). No gel time/working time is listed. I have contacted the manufacturer to try and get this information. I imagine it is close to 8-10 hours. Why is elevating the curing temperature a bad thing? I would love to boost the temp to a minimum of 100 F after the infusion has completed. Thanks...Alan Edited 4 Years Ago by ahender
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torsten Ker	t torsten Ker posted 4 Years Ago HOT Post Details
t Group: Forum Members Posts: 59, Visits: 278	higher temperature during the initial cure can "cook" the resin similar to what happens in the mixing pot after a while. Not so extream but can effect the final strength
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ahender	a ahender posted 4 Years Ago HOT Post Details
a Group: Forum Members Posts: 38, Visits: 300	+x torsten Ker - 10/29/2020 2:37:49 PM higher temperature during the initial cure can "cook" the resin similar to what happens in the mixing pot after a while. Not so extream but can effect the final strength Thank you for your reply. Not sure if this is relevant, but I have changed my plans some and will only do a single layer of 9 oz. s-2 glass on the inner and outer layers (plus core). Could I boost the temp say 5 degrees every 2 hours? I plan to start with the resin and hull temp at approx. 85 degrees. The resin I am using has also changed. It's PTM&W MVS-610/620. Pot life at 77 degrees is 2 hours. Alan
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torsten Ker	t torsten Ker posted 4 Years Ago HOT Post Details
t Group: Forum Members Posts: 59, Visits: 278	Hi Alan I think as a general guide for Epoxies you can use Easy composites datasheets The good guys have really well documented products and details and advice readily available plus I trust the materials are well sourced and tested frequently https://media.easycomposites.co.uk/datasheets/EC-TDS-IN2-Infusion-Resin.pdf In there, it is well described how to infuse, cure and postcure Edited 4 Years Ago by torsten Ker
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ahender	a ahender posted 4 Years Ago HOT Post Details
a Group: Forum Members Posts: 38, Visits: 300	+x torsten Ker - 10/29/2020 4:04:23 PM Hi Alan I think as a general guide for Epoxies you can use Easy composites datasheets The good guys have really well documented products and details and advice readily available plus I trust the materials are well sourced and tested frequently https://media.easycomposites.co.uk/datasheets/EC-TDS-IN2-Infusion-Resin.pdf In there, it is well described how to infuse, cure and postcure Thank you. Talked to the tech dept for the epoxy I will be using. The person said I could cure at a temperature between 100 and 110. 110 degrees would speed up cure time significantly based on 'f or every increase of 10 degrees C, cure time is cut in half'. Edited 4 Years Ago by ahender
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Hanaldo	Hanaldo posted 4 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 28K	Yeh there really isn't any reason you can't elevate the cure if you're using epoxy, the only time you might want to be very careful is if you are doing a very thick laminate - not something most people have to worry about. I frequently elevate to 50-60° C straight after infusion. Couple things to watch out for are leaks developing (bagging tape can soften and start to leak), uneven heating (not ideal for one part of the mould to be more than a couple degrees different to another part as this will cause warping), and thermal runaways in thicker sections.
	Reply Like 3
torsten Ker	t torsten Ker posted 4 Years Ago HOT Post Details
t Group: Forum Members Posts: 59, Visits: 278	I'm bit confused because it sounds a bit like you are mixing Fahrenheit with Celsius 110C (230F) of post curing you will cook almost every Epoxy I know, if it is 110F (43C) then it would take about 12 to 24 hours to achieve full mechanical properties but still will be subject to shrinkage, print trough and distortion problems if the part is exposed 60C post cure I never go above 30C (86F) straight after infusion/laminating fro the time specified by the hardener for the initial cure, that can cause "bubbling", print-trough on cooling and the problems described by Hanaldo If I can suggest, stick to the guide fomr Easy Composites (datasheet) I send a link earlier I did a lot of research and testing in the past 5 years and every credible publication confirmed that Edited 4 Years Ago by torsten Ker
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ahender	a ahender posted 4 Years Ago HOT Post Details
a Group: Forum Members Posts: 38, Visits: 300	+x torsten Ker - 10/29/2020 11:17:15 PM I'm bit confused because it sounds a bit like you are mixing Fahrenheit with Celsius 110C (230F) of post curing you will cook almost every Epoxy I know, if it is 110F (43C) then it would take about 12 to 24 hours to achieve full mechanical properties but still will be subject to shrinkage, print trough and distortion problems if the part is exposed 60C post cure I never go above 30C (86F) straight after infusion/laminating fro the time specified by the hardener for the initial cure, that can cause "bubbling", print-trough on cooling and the problems described by Hanaldo If I can suggest, stick to the guide fomr Easy Composites (datasheet) I send a link earlier I did a lot of research and testing in the past 5 years and every credible publication confirmed that Sorry for the confusion. I'm in the U.S. 110 degrees F is what I am referring to.
	Reply Like 3
ahender	a ahender posted 4 Years Ago HOT Post Details
a Group: Forum Members Posts: 38, Visits: 300	+x Hanaldo - 10/29/2020 11:15:17 PM Yeh there really isn't any reason you can't elevate the cure if you're using epoxy, the only time you might want to be very careful is if you are doing a very thick laminate - not something most people have to worry about. I frequently elevate to 50-60° C straight after infusion. Couple things to watch out for are leaks developing (bagging tape can soften and start to leak), uneven heating (not ideal for one part of the mould to be more than a couple degrees different to another part as this will cause warping), and thermal runaways in thicker sections. Thank you Hanaldo. I may have to change strategies on heating source. I know I have more than a few degrees variation with my current setup.
	Reply Like 3

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