Skinning queries


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TO82
TO82
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After some info on carbon skinning mainly what people use as the 'basecoat' is it possible to use polyester resin or gel coat as the first layer for which the carbon is placed upon?

Also which type of cloth is easier to work with 1x1 or twill weave 2x2?

Thanks for any help!

Cheers 
TO82
TO82
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Bump, 

Looking to skin some abs plastic door handles, Can it be done using just polyester resin Applied direct to the part?
WilliamsHPF
WilliamsHPF
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hello TO82,

  from what I have seen yes, it is possible to use polyester resin to skin your parts in... but NOT ok for simply the first tacky layer followed by epoxy resins.  you'll want to stick with the same "family" of resins... either epoxy or poly throughout the entire process.

as for the easiest to use between 2x2 and 1x1... depends on the shape of the part honeslty.  the 2x2 will conform to complex shapes slightly better than the 1x1....  but then again, I'm still learning a lot as well so... you may want to wait to hear back from an expert like Fred or one of the EC staff before you give it a go.

 good luck,

David
mhdghoul
mhdghoul
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to82

i started since 4 years and till now i had no epoxy clear at my town, i use polyester to evrything and every layer , as a base coat i use black pigment with it and it works perfectly if the part is black i use only polyester , but dont forget to sand the part with 60-80 grid to make sure it will stick fine.

if u need any help please ask me cause i suffered a lot because of lack of epoxy Smile

best regards mhd alghoul mhdghoul@hotmail.com youtube channel :atmospherejo link is http://www.youtube.com/user/atmospherejo?ob=0&feature=results_main
fgayford
fgayford
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TO82 (20/12/2012)
Bump, 

Looking to skin some abs plastic door handles, Can it be done using just polyester resin Applied direct to the part?
I will add my 2 cents worth. I am not sure, but I think that polyester will attack abs plastic. Do a test before you proceed.

Epoxy is really friendly to most things i have tried. Keep in mind that polyester is very UV sensitive and will probably yellow and look terrible in less than a year. I would skin your part in epoxy  and then clearcoat to get the UV protection that you must have to prevent yellowing.

Buy the skinning kit from Easy Composites and you can't go wrong. It goes a long way because you are only going one layer.

You get what you pay for!

Hope this helps

Fred   
TomDesign
TomDesign
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yes i done with polister but after 1 month clear coat start to be pain as polyster tart to move and it look like eats clear coat so surface go down. and have to clear coat one again. that is my experience.
brasco
brasco
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i come from an automotive repair background(collision repair specifically) and if you clear use fine grit paper and if you clear use high solids clear
and always use 2 component clears. never use lacquer !  and always as said before to use the same family of resins, dont mix them in layers or become "at home chemist" and make some junk. there are billions of dollars/pounds invested in the expoxy and polyester resin industry to make the products the best they can. take advantage of all those university degrees and use the resins as they are intended.
 as for prep to clearcoat--you only need to sand barely enuff to take the gloss off the part. clear will bite to the fine scratches , as it is made for that in the automotive repair industry.
if you dont have spray equipment--consider experimenting with a small roller and using high solids clear, roll it on. let teh coats almost dry between coats and mix with the 2nd component as usual  and when all is cured you can wet sand and polish it to the shine and gloss you desire.
high solids clear--think of it this way, in paint the pigments are high solids, for density and color match and more efficient use of all the materials and health reasons too. for high solids clear the clear solids(pigments) are clear but have high UV resistance.


CarbonFiberCreations



TO82
TO82
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Done an overlay with polyester followed by clear coat, doesnt look too bad in dayligt yet when i take pictures with the flash you can see misting is this due to poor quality resin or just where he resin is too thick, also would this problem be none exsitant using decent epoxy?

Heres a couple of pics:





Cheers
GO

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