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This sounds like a project that would need lots of cutting and jointing of pieces to cover the various curves and angles well, which would be somewhat visible afterwards. Trying to get a single or separate large pieces down could prove difficult and will probably cause the weave to distort quite a bit on such a relatively large panel.
Assuming that your bonnet underside isn't black already, you could pigment some epoxy resin black, but colour saturation isn't always great on black coloured base coats anyhow, so you might not get a complete 'blacking-out' of the surface. If using a more tightly woven 240/245g twill fabric, this might not be such an issue, though
Importantly, though, I think you need to bear in mind the temperatures the skinned surface will see. Even with the facility to post-cure the finished panel at an elevated temperature in a controlled manner, it's likely that the skinned part will suffer from shrinkage and possible dulling of the epoxy in quite a short space of time, leaving it looking less than pristine. Skinning relies upon quite a high resin content, which can shrink at anything above ambient temperatures. Some of this can be overcome by inducing that shrinkage during a post cure and flatting back afterwards, but it sounds like a difficult job on such a contoured surface It might also be prone to delamination too, if the bond isn't perfect in tight corners
In the main, I think that what you have in mind is likely not the best application for carbon skinning, as it sounds very difficult to get the cosmetics right and the durability of the finish might not be too great either, given the harsh, high-temperature environment. Apologies if it sounds quite a negative take on your idea, but skinned parts, in particular, can be a lot less resilient to the environment and the 'look' can quickly be compromised.
I've skinned high temperature parts previously using a high-temp epoxy but, unfortunately, this type of resin isn't the greatest for clarity and surface finish. Again, it relies upon a controlled post-cure to achieve it's mechanical properties, which can be tricky unless you have a big oven set-up.
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