|
Jas1712
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 6,
Visits: 69
|
Hi, Im jut about to skinning some part from my motorcycle, my cuestion is that I can apply some stickers before the final coat, like the Ducati and some lines. This is a great place, congrats for the great job that you're doing. 
|
|
|
|
|
Furrari
|
|
|
Group: Awaiting Activation
Posts: 63,
Visits: 99
|
Has. Hi. I’ve just joined and you thread looks interesting.
My project is to improve the look of a sliding load cover in the boot of my kit car. This is the largest job by size that I will have attempted on this car. I would like to sit a Ferrari sticker on the top face, similar to your Ducati idea. Providing there is no reaction of the sticker with the resin you use this shouldn’t be a problem ( I’ve done this with a two part varnish on wood) although you may have to apply a couple more coats of resin, so you can sand down a bit more to get rid of the variation in thickness.
Back to my project.
The load cover is covered in a flock spray (OEM) which has been painted/dyed black but is now fading to gray and looks tatty. Not only do I want a badge on the top but I want to sit two badges of different thicknesses and an engraved switch panel, again a different thickness so that they all finish flush with the surface. ( if it was easy anybody could do it). I have a number of options and would anybodies input.
Option 1. Sand it down. Recess where I want the badges, just a little deeper than the thickness of the badges, have the panel dipped and then sit the badges in the recesses, use clear resin to fill the recesses so that they are flush with the surface and than have the dipping lacquer put on over the top.
Option 2. Similar to above, but cut holes for the badges and then back them up to just below the surface, etc, etc. This is probably easier than option 1 as it’s easier to cut a hole than gring an accurate, even recess..
Option 3. Similar to the above but do it with a carbon wrap and sit the badges etc on top of the wrap coat and then resin coat it.
Option 4. Make an FG mould with the recesses in. Place the badges on the mould and layer up CF on to this. ( Vacuum banging if needed). This is probably the hardest method.
Any body any ideas?
Mick
|
|
|
|
|
Jas1712
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 6,
Visits: 69
|
+xHas. Hi. I’ve just joined and you thread looks interesting.My project is to improve the look of a sliding load cover in the boot of my kit car. This is the largest job by size that I will have attempted on this car. I would like to sit a Ferrari sticker on the top face, similar to your Ducati idea. Providing there is no reaction of the sticker with the resin you use this shouldn’t be a problem ( I’ve done this with a two part varnish on wood) although you may have to apply a couple more coats of resin, so you can sand down a bit more to get rid of the variation in thickness.Back to my project.The load cover is covered in a flock spray (OEM) which has been painted/dyed black but is now fading to gray and looks tatty. Not only do I want a badge on the top but I want to sit two badges of different thicknesses and an engraved switch panel, again a different thickness so that they all finish flush with the surface. ( if it was easy anybody could do it). I have a number of options and would anybodies input.Option 1. Sand it down. Recess where I want the badges, just a little deeper than the thickness of the badges, have the panel dipped and then sit the badges in the recesses, use clear resin to fill the recesses so that they are flush with the surface and than have the dipping lacquer put on over the top.Option 2. Similar to above, but cut holes for the badges and then back them up to just below the surface, etc, etc. This is probably easier than option 1 as it’s easier to cut a hole than gring an accurate, even recess..Option 3. Similar to the above but do it with a carbon wrap and sit the badges etc on top of the wrap coat and then resin coat it.Option 4. Make an FG mould with the recesses in. Place the badges on the mould and layer up CF on to this. ( Vacuum banging if needed). This is probably the hardest method.Any body any ideas?Mick Hi furarri, wellcome and thanx for the feedback and the support. Back to your project, I'm not sure if I got it right but I think that it will be easier if you can get 2 set of stickers and use one to apply before the laying on, then apply the first layer sand it down with the stickers, then remove them and replace them, I think the surface should be the same level and then you can put some more layers. Cheers and good luck with your project.
|
|
|
|
|
Furrari
|
|
|
Group: Awaiting Activation
Posts: 63,
Visits: 99
|
Executive decision taken. One of the badges is going but I hope to recycle the other. Going for the hole with backing method. All the stuff for vacuum bagging ordered apart from the CF and the pump. ( just waiting to establish the threads on the pump). I have ordered 8 different samples of CF to see what I like. Also got to order the Ferrari stickers ( big yellow ones to match the car). I’ll post pictures before I start work.
M
|
|
|
|
|
Furrari
|
|
|
Group: Awaiting Activation
Posts: 63,
Visits: 99
|
No action yet. Pump is ordered. Samples of CF have arrived along with all the consumables, so just waiting on the pump delivery to make up a board of samples to see which I like best, each piece will be partly against a black background and partly against a yellow to try to make it look a bit like the dip I have on the inside. I’ve seen some vids on you tube using flattened tow CF so my current idea ( it may change yet again ) is to use two pieces of CF butt up against each other so their weaves forms a V. Over the joint will be a 5 x 15mm strip of tow CF. This will be off set to the rh side as a racing stripe. I will have a Pininfarina sticker ( all badges are going) on the left side upright part of the cover. Ferrari text will be on the centre line, also starting on the upright part of the cover with the cavelinos ( the horsey bit) on the flat. Longer term I might do the underside of the boot and bonnet ( just because I can) with the racing stripe following through. I’ll be using CRX resin.
A lot of difficult work for a novice but if it was easy anybody could do it.
Anybody any suggestions or ideas. ( other than getting somebody else to do it)
Mick.
|
|
|
|
|
Jas1712
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 6,
Visits: 69
|
+xNo action yet. Pump is ordered. Samples of CF have arrived along with all the consumables, so just waiting on the pump delivery to make up a board of samples to see which I like best, each piece will be partly against a black background and partly against a yellow to try to make it look a bit like the dip I have on the inside. I’ve seen some vids on you tube using flattened tow CF so my current idea ( it may change yet again ) is to use two pieces of CF butt up against each other so their weaves forms a V. Over the joint will be a 5 x 15mm strip of tow CF. This will be off set to the rh side as a racing stripe. I will have a Pininfarina sticker ( all badges are going) on the left side upright part of the cover. Ferrari text will be on the centre line, also starting on the upright part of the cover with the cavelinos ( the horsey bit) on the flat. Longer term I might do the underside of the boot and bonnet ( just because I can) with the racing stripe following through. I’ll be using CRX resin. A lot of difficult work for a novice but if it was easy anybody could do it. Anybody any suggestions or ideas. ( other than getting somebody else to do it) Mick. Hello Mick. I think that you may need the pre- preg onr, thisCF is best for details and overlap method, this is extremely accurate to cut and work with, you may need a fusion fix to fixed properly. Good luck and don't forget to send some pics. Bests regards.
|
|
|
|
|
Furrari
|
|
|
Group: Awaiting Activation
Posts: 63,
Visits: 99
|
+x+xNo action yet. Pump is ordered. Samples of CF have arrived along with all the consumables, so just waiting on the pump delivery to make up a board of samples to see which I like best, each piece will be partly against a black background and partly against a yellow to try to make it look a bit like the dip I have on the inside. I’ve seen some vids on you tube using flattened tow CF so my current idea ( it may change yet again ) is to use two pieces of CF butt up against each other so their weaves forms a V. Over the joint will be a 5 x 15mm strip of tow CF. This will be off set to the rh side as a racing stripe. I will have a Pininfarina sticker ( all badges are going) on the left side upright part of the cover. Ferrari text will be on the centre line, also starting on the upright part of the cover with the cavelinos ( the horsey bit) on the flat. Longer term I might do the underside of the boot and bonnet ( just because I can) with the racing stripe following through. I’ll be using CRX resin. A lot of difficult work for a novice but if it was easy anybody could do it. Anybody any suggestions or ideas. ( other than getting somebody else to do it) Mick. Hello Mick. I think that you may need the pre- preg onr, thisCF is best for details and overlap method, this is extremely accurate to cut and work with, you may need a fusion fix to fixed properly. Good luck and don't forget to send some pics. Bests regards.
|
|
|
|
|
Furrari
|
|
|
Group: Awaiting Activation
Posts: 63,
Visits: 99
|
Jas. I appreciate that pre-preg is the best way to go but I don’t have the facilities to use the stuff so I’m limited to working with infusion or vacuum bagging a wet layup. I think infusion is beyond my current skill and experience level, although I hope to be able to do it in the near future. Management ( the wife) likes the carbon/twaron the most as it has the gold highlights in it, so I’m going with that. As I’m pushing my personal envelope I’ll be laying down a 600 ish g/M with the 200 g/M on top with the tow stripe on top of that. I’ll flat that lot before applying the stickers as they will be better on a flat, smooth surface. If it means a couple of extra layers of clear resin I’m happy with that. In fact I’m looking forwards to working with an entirely new medium. If it was easy anybody could do it.
Pics.? Of course, if there are no pics, it didn’t happen.
Keep the comments coming, I need the help.
|
|
|
|
|
Hanaldo
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 2.5K,
Visits: 28K
|
I think Jas may have actually meant the ProFinish carbon rather than pre-preg as he mentions using spray adhesive with it which would be totally unnecessary and even detrimental with pre-preg.
The ProFinish is a set weave carbon, which is a type of dry carbon fabric that has a binder in it to prevent the fibres from fraying as much and keeping the weave neat. It can be more accurately than regular dry carbon, so can be great for doing v-weaves in an infusion or wet lay setup.
|
|
|
|
|
Furrari
|
|
|
Group: Awaiting Activation
Posts: 63,
Visits: 99
|
+xI think Jas may have actually meant the ProFinish carbon rather than pre-preg as he mentions using spray adhesive with it which would be totally unnecessary and even detrimental with pre-preg. The ProFinish is a set weave carbon, which is a type of dry carbon fabric that has a binder in it to prevent the fibres from fraying as much and keeping the weave neat. It can be more accurately than regular dry carbon, so can be great for doing v-weaves in an infusion or wet lay setup.
|
|
|
|