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Steve Broad
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+xJust remember to mix small batches as the pot life in this weather is likely to be sub 10 minutes, so small batches at a time and you will have around a 2 hour cure time on the resin. Cheers, Warren.
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Warren (Staff)
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Just remember to mix small batches as the pot life in this weather is likely to be sub 10 minutes, so small batches at a time and you will have around a 2 hour cure time on the resin.
Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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Steve Broad
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+x+xLet us know how you get on. Hopefully you will be able to sort it. Hopefully :-) Any issues with using your repair resin, as this will speed up the repair process? Steve Just spoken to Rich who confirmed that there are no problems with using this resin.
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Steve Broad
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Group: Forum Members
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+xLet us know how you get on. Hopefully you will be able to sort it. Hopefully :-) Any issues with using your repair resin, as this will speed up the repair process? Steve
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Warren (Staff)
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Let us know how you get on. Hopefully you will be able to sort it.
Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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Steve Broad
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+xHow is the trimming and repair work coming on? Do you have a more or less final weight yet? Hi I have been adding foam core to splitter, again struggling with achieving a vacuum. However, that should be cured today so I will be able to turn the bonnet over and get sanding. I will advise on final weight. If the repair work is a failure, I will repair the bonnet section of the mould and make a new top and glue that on.
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Warren (Staff)
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How is the trimming and repair work coming on? Do you have a more or less final weight yet?
Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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Steve Broad
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+xAs long as you didn't have bridging, it doesn't make a difference if you bagged the whole mould or just the inside. The air pushes against the outside mold with the mold with the same pressure, with or without the bag. As the pressure in your stringers should have been atmospheric pressure, I wonder why the bending didn't went outward, as the trapped air expanded with the temperature? The pressure inside the ribs should not be 0psi, but >atmospheric pressure? Or did you drill venting holes from the outside? If so, the pressure inside the ribs would have been 0psi due to your bagging technique. The same would happen, if your upper two layers are not airtight. The main mistake here was to use hollow profiles. You should always try to avoid air pockets in both moulds and parts, unless the air is securely trapped inside a foam or micro glass bubbles. Or at least honeycombs, but I saw heat problems with those, too. Yes, I know the air would be atmospheric, I was working on relative pressures. otherwise the 14 would be 0. With a vacuum within the ribs (I would be surprised if they were airtight, the combination of vacuum and heat would find a weakness) there is nothing to resist the pressure from the other side, which is why the mould deformed along the rib lines. The two faces of the bag were trying to meet but the ribs prevented the outside moving in so the path of least resistance was the part of the mould under the ribs. Differential pressure deformed the ribs as far as I can make out. Anyway, I won't make that mistake again. Yes, solid ribs would probably work but might still show through, albeit only cosmetically, so smooth surfaces are best, I think.
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oekmont
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As long as you didn't have bridging, it doesn't make a difference if you bagged the whole mould or just the inside. The air pushes against the outside mold with the mold with the same pressure, with or without the bag. As the pressure in your stringers should have been atmospheric pressure, I wonder why the bending didn't went outward, as the trapped air expanded with the temperature? The pressure inside the ribs should not be 0psi, but >atmospheric pressure?
Or did you drill venting holes from the outside? If so, the pressure inside the ribs would have been 0psi due to your bagging technique. The same would happen, if your upper two layers are not airtight.
The main mistake here was to use hollow profiles. You should always try to avoid air pockets in both moulds and parts, unless the air is securely trapped inside a foam or micro glass bubbles. Or at least honeycombs, but I saw heat problems with those, too.
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Warren (Staff)
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Thanks for the pictures. I see what you mean by the ribbing. It is a shame as the rest of it looks really good. It is a shame there was the void in the ribs but as we discussed you probably don't need them or next time use something rigid in the ribs.
Hopefully the repairs will come out ok and you keep it down to a good weight too.
Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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