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Tony2125
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Group: Forum Members
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Hi I am building mine I was wondering where should be the optimal position of the temperature sensor that control the PID. Near the heating elements, to avoid overheating of any mold material. Or inside the mold near the finish part to make sure the part cure at the set temperature Just let me know your thought, or feedback if ever experienced Thanks
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Hexa Composites
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Group: Forum Members
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Visits: 39
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Hi, I like your ideas and will use them. Will continue posting as I progress with my oven plans.
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Dangi
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Group: Awaiting Activation
Posts: 1,
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HI, I like the idea of your long curing oven. To help with heat confinement, adding cement sheeting on the inside will do a heat barrier and heat diffuser as well. Cement sheeting will also make inside lot more robust to damage when manipulating item. Make door with 3 step 90 degree (like Maya pyramid) with rubber or silicone seal at each step to make it air tight.
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Hexa Composites
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 2,
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Hello all from rainy Southern California (yes, it rains here sometimes in the winter). I am currently working on the design of a composites oven I am planning to build this spring. I am doing research and sketches right now. The best research article I have found so far, is this one on how to build a powder coating oven: http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven.html#.VOodprPF_MAI will use many of the ideas from this oven for my build. These guys did a great job! My oven will be around 72"L x 72"W x 60"H (i.d. dimensions), on wheels, with two opening front doors. I will build it to be able to roll it in and out of a one-car garage. Unfortunately, I need to eBay a bunch of parts and toss a lot of junk before I can get started.  Good luck on your composites oven build!
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BoostSamurai
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 34,
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CarbonMike
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 31,
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aris00 (23/03/2013)
@CarbonMike - Have you had an oven catch on fire on you? I would be interested to know what you think went wrong and any tips on how to avoid would helpful too!Not personally no, however I work with a load of laminators that started out there carrers in the late 70's an early 80's when carbon started to make it big in the motorsport world. And some of the setups they've told me about that various well known F1 teams & Group B rally teams devised were basically very similar to these box ovens.
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Demlotcrew
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Group: Forum Members
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stuart321 (15/04/2013)
Seems like there are several of us doing similar things - I finally got my oven working today  My oven is in the roof space of the garage above the car ramp and consists of a 6ft wide by 8ft deep oven using 50mm foil lined cellotex, a chipboard and hardboard floor, cellotex lined doors. The electrics are 12v control circuitry, PID controller (ebay china special but seems good), solid state relay for switching the heater elements, 2kw fan heater, thermal cut-outs, double pole relay and a couple of switches. The fan is enclosed in a shroud and draws air from the far end through 2 x 4" ducts in the apex in an effort to cycle the air for even temperature. Going for safety and fail-safe in building this so the 12v relay, momentary switch & thermal cut-outs make a collapsible circuit - you have to press the momentary button to start the controller & distribute 240v and if either thermal cut-out trips then it all switches off. The size and shape will house bonnet moulds & all the other parts I can imagine doing (hopefully I haven't overlooked anything). Looking forward to attacking the backlog of parts I need to make for the rallycar! Stuart Very neat use of space! Might have to copy this idea! Andrew
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stuart321
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 37,
Visits: 178
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Seems like there are several of us doing similar things - I finally got my oven working today My oven is in the roof space of the garage above the car ramp and consists of a 6ft wide by 8ft deep oven using 50mm foil lined cellotex, a chipboard and hardboard floor, cellotex lined doors. The electrics are 12v control circuitry, PID controller (ebay china special but seems good), solid state relay for switching the heater elements, 2kw fan heater, thermal cut-outs, double pole relay and a couple of switches. The fan is enclosed in a shroud and draws air from the far end through 2 x 4" ducts in the apex in an effort to cycle the air for even temperature. Going for safety and fail-safe in building this so the 12v relay, momentary switch & thermal cut-outs make a collapsible circuit - you have to press the momentary button to start the controller & distribute 240v and if either thermal cut-out trips then it all switches off. The size and shape will house bonnet moulds & all the other parts I can imagine doing (hopefully I haven't overlooked anything). Looking forward to attacking the backlog of parts I need to make for the rallycar! Stuart
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Ortonporton
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 8,
Visits: 338
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 I have something similar, it's from amazon and was £15, it works up to 100 C and you can set the tolerance, I have it so once it's within 2 c it switches on or off, well handy. I only pop to check once in a while, and only have it all on when I'm home!!!
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alebassa
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 48,
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Sorry..... I'm just three months old in composites world!!
Yes the unit is really easy to use... The best would be to get something that can manage ramp temperature.. It's a little bit boring to remember going to change the temp every hour! But for my little works it's ok by now...
If anybody is interested in managing ramp temperature I can tell you look for beer brewing equipment...
I found out that for doing beer at home you need to warm up the thing with a ramp... and so you can easily find there temp controllers.. It seems to me they were about 100 euros...
The other way (maybe cheaper but you need pc-electronics skill) is to get an interface for the temp probe and work it out with a pc
Alessandro
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