Hi, is it possible to lay a second layer of resin onto a fully cured floor (3-5mm). There are small areas where the resin is a bit thin and wondered if it's possible re-coat these areas with small amount of resin to thicken it up a bit. Or is it a case of having to pour another whole area over the whole floor?....it's about 1.5 metres square? Thanks

Yes you can recoat the floor in patches if needs be.  As the floor has fully hardened, you will need to key the surface with sandpaper to help the resin get a good bond.  Then pour the second layer to fill in the low spots. Once fully cured, you can use wet and dry sandpaper to blend the edges of the new resin in with the old and then bring back to a high gloss using a modern Polishing Compound                                             


Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant

Hello

I’m not sure how to write a question of my own, so apologies for jumping in here!
I have done a penny table and have used epoxy resin and hardener on top, however in some places it is very tacky, and some places also look wet underneath the cured resin. what do you advise I do to rectify this? Also can I re resin just the areas in question or would I need to re resin the whole lot again? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you so much
Kim x

That was what I thought. Is there anything that can be done or should I scrap it?
Thanks for replying!

You will likely need to begin the wonderfully enjoyable task of removing the uncured resin via a combination of scraping and acetone. If you have areas of resin that have cured, you will need to scrape off the uncured stuff, clean it up with acetone until it is no longer sticky, and then likely sand off the cured stuff and start again. If you have patches of uncured resin underneath cured resin, then this is probably going to be very difficult to remove and it may be easier to scrap the project and start again from scratch.

You might like to try applying a bit of heat, if you've got some 500w work lamps that you can use to get the surface up to 50 degrees or so then there is a very small chance that this will cure the resin, even if it's just to a stage where it is easier to remove. But in all honesty, this very rarely works, so be prepared to scrap it and start again. 

Thank you so much for your reply. I thought as much. How gutting

Initially try heat to see if it forces the resin to cure.  Otherwise Honaldo is right in that you would need to remove the uncured resin and re-pour fresh.  Depending exactly how bad it is, it may well be virtually impossible to remove it all without damaging the embedded pennies.

Use a sander to quickly take down the resin but stop just short of the pennys.  At that point reassess.  If its all hard resin  then you are ok.  If it is still  jelly/gloopy liquid in places, if you have access, mop it up, clean with acetone  until everything is dry and you should be ok.

Its a lot of work  but in most cases it is doable to recover to a point you can pour again.


Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant

in my opinion sanding doesn't work, if you are trying to keep the pennys. if epoxy isn't cured properly, sanding usually leads to getting all the dust rubbed into the epoxy, so your penny floor optics are lost anyway.
It sounds like a major mixing problem. if there are areas, wich are still liquid, all you can do is to apply some heat, and hope for the best. if it gets reasonably hard, maybe a second layer (well mixed) will give the needed surface hardness. but for that, the first layer have to be solid .
if not, you should get new pennys, and somehow get the old epoxy with the pennys out. this might include hammer and chisel.