How to Cold Cast using Metal Powders (using Xencast® Resin Casting Starter Kit and Metal Powders)


How to Cold Cast using Metal Powders (using Xencast® Resin Casting Starter Kit and Metal Powders)
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Furrari
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Warren (Staff) - 12/12/2018 9:29:30 AM
You do need quite a high level of metal powder to ensure enough metal is close to the surface of the cast so that when you sand it, it takes on the metallic effect.

You can brush into the mould a very heavily metal laden layer of resin first then back fill to help ensure you get the balance right.

It does make it easier using fast curing casting systems as the metal has less time to settle and move around during the cure process..



Furrari
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Thanks Warren. I did dust the mould with the powder before I poured the resin. The part I’m casting is cast with the face I want to see at the bottom so any powder settling will settle to the face you see.

I’ve seen on YouTube some lighter coloured powder so I’ll have to get some of that and try again.

Mick
Eddie Walsh
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Furrari - 12/11/2018 6:02:59 PM
Just found this post and it’s very good timing. I have a Ferrari replica kit car and I’m trying to improve the look of the engine bay.Next part are the filler caps. First I need the Ferrari horse. After much searching for one about 40mm tall I realised that I already had one, it was the buckle of my belt. I used this and a thermoplastic called “Blue Stuff” to produce a one off cast horse. Unfortunately you can only use the mould one, but I now have the horse.I’ve used this horse to produce a silicon mould from which I can make more horses.For my first cast from this mould I used 1 part resin, 1 part hardener and one part aluminium powder. After demoulding I have an aluminium horse but even after polishing with 0000 steel wool it’s too dark. Before I start the main part has anybody any idea how to produce a lighter colour of “casting”Would a higher ratio of aluminium help?Would using a clear cast resin help?Would using a white pigment (or any other colour) help?Please help.

Hi Furrari, yes I am hoping to do the same thing as I want to enbed the horse is a CF panel for the engine bay, and like you I want a shiny silver horse, so let me know how you get on, Thanks, Regards DM

Furrari
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Eddie Walsh - 12/13/2018 9:47:03 PM
Furrari - 12/11/2018 6:02:59 PM
Just found this post and it’s very good timing. I have a Ferrari replica kit car and I’m trying to improve the look of the engine bay.Next part are the filler caps. First I need the Ferrari horse. After much searching for one about 40mm tall I realised that I already had one, it was the buckle of my belt. I used this and a thermoplastic called “Blue Stuff” to produce a one off cast horse. Unfortunately you can only use the mould one, but I now have the horse.I’ve used this horse to produce a silicon mould from which I can make more horses.For my first cast from this mould I used 1 part resin, 1 part hardener and one part aluminium powder. After demoulding I have an aluminium horse but even after polishing with 0000 steel wool it’s too dark. Before I start the main part has anybody any idea how to produce a lighter colour of “casting”Would a higher ratio of aluminium help?Would using a clear cast resin help?Would using a white pigment (or any other colour) help?Please help.

Hi Furrari, yes I am hoping to do the same thing as I want to enbed the horse is a CF panel for the engine bay, and like you I want a shiny silver horse, so let me know how you get on, Thanks, Regards DM



Furrari
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Eddie. Will do. The one I’ve done is shiney after buffing but is pewter coloured. I have some “silver bullet” on order from smooth-on together with some black and some white pigment. I’m going to do a range of casts with a different ratio of pigments to see the result. My horse is only 40mm x 25mm ish x 3mm so it won’t cost much. I’ll keep you up to date.

Mick
Furrari
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Warren (Staff) - 12/12/2018 9:29:30 AM
You do need quite a high level of metal powder to ensure enough metal is close to the surface of the cast so that when you sand it, it takes on the metallic effect.

You can brush into the mould a very heavily metal laden layer of resin first then back fill to help ensure you get the balance right.

It does make it easier using fast curing casting systems as the metal has less time to settle and move around during the cure process..



Furrari
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Eddie. Shiny horse things.

When I did my Furrari engine cover I sprayed all the bits I wanted to look like aluminium with Volvo Silver. I’m trying to match this colour for the filler caps. I’ve sprayed one horse with the silver to give me a reference point.
The next one I did with Smooth On products. I used Smooth Cast 325 with Silver Bullet dusted into the mould but no other pigmentation. After curing this gave a Mother of Pearl sort of effect.
My third attempt was again using 325 and Silver Bullet but with Smooth On's aluminium power (1 part A, 1 part B and 2 parts aluminium by volume). I would be happy with this result although I may still spray the final cap with clear laquer to give a final gloss.
I’ll make the cap mould over the next couple of days and let you know how I get on.

Mick
Eddie Walsh
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Furrari - 12/18/2018 7:37:35 PM
Eddie. Shiny horse things.When I did my Furrari engine cover I sprayed all the bits I wanted to look like aluminium with Volvo Silver. I’m trying to match this colour for the filler caps. I’ve sprayed one horse with the silver to give me a reference point.The next one I did with Smooth On products. I used Smooth Cast 325 with Silver Bullet dusted into the mould but no other pigmentation. After curing this gave a Mother of Pearl sort of effect.My third attempt was again using 325 and Silver Bullet but with Smooth On's aluminium power (1 part A, 1 part B and 2 parts aluminium by volume). I would be happy with this result although I may still spray the final cap with clear laquer to give a final gloss.I’ll make the cap mould over the next couple of days and let you know how I get on.Mick

Hi Mick, thanks, sounds like you are almost there, Regards Ed

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