This is the new Cold Casting using Metal Powders video from our casting series. In this video we demonstrate how to use metal powder with the resin casting starter kit to produce metallic effect pieces. The guide takes you through the entire process including creating the silicone moulds, casting a splash part and finally casting and finishing the cold cast part.

The metal powder not only gives amazing metallic effects, it also makes the pieces weighty and the feels cool to the touch like a true metal piece. It is very easy to work with and with quite simple finishing work it produces brilliant results, and coupled with the Xencast® P2 Fast Cast resin means that multiple pieces can be produced in a very short time as the curing time is under 30 minutes per casting.

The finishing process was achieved by using abrasive papers and a sanding block and then given a contrast effect using black spray paint and steel wool. Different looks can be achieved by using different metals - aluminium, bronze, brass or copper are readily available.

Here's the video tutorial demonstrating how to cold cast using metal powders:


If anyone has any questions on this process or the materials please post them and we'll be happy to answer them.

Becky Hinton
Easy Composites

You do need quite a high level of metal powder to ensure enough metal is close to the surface of the cast so that when you sand it, it takes on the metallic effect.

You can brush into the mould a very heavily metal laden layer of resin first then back fill to help ensure you get the balance right.

It does make it easier using fast curing casting systems as the metal has less time to settle and move around during the cure process..


Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant

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Warren (Staff) - 12/12/2018 9:29:30 AM

You do need quite a high level of metal powder to ensure enough metal is close to the surface of the cast so that when you sand it, it takes on the metallic effect.

You can brush into the mould a very heavily metal laden layer of resin first then back fill to help ensure you get the balance right.

It does make it easier using fast curing casting systems as the metal has less time to settle and move around during the cure process..

Thanks Warren. I did dust the mould with the powder before I poured the resin. The part I’m casting is cast with the face I want to see at the bottom so any powder settling will settle to the face you see.

I’ve seen on YouTube some lighter coloured powder so I’ll have to get some of that and try again.

Mick

Eddie. Will do. The one I’ve done is shiney after buffing but is pewter coloured. I have some “silver bullet” on order from smooth-on together with some black and some white pigment. I’m going to do a range of casts with a different ratio of pigments to see the result. My horse is only 40mm x 25mm ish x 3mm so it won’t cost much. I’ll keep you up to date.

Mick

+x

 

Warren (Staff) - 12/12/2018 9:29:30 AM

You do need quite a high level of metal powder to ensure enough metal is close to the surface of the cast so that when you sand it, it takes on the metallic effect.

You can brush into the mould a very heavily metal laden layer of resin first then back fill to help ensure you get the balance right.

It does make it easier using fast curing casting systems as the metal has less time to settle and move around during the cure process..

Eddie. Shiny horse things.

When I did my Furrari engine cover I sprayed all the bits I wanted to look like aluminium with Volvo Silver. I’m trying to match this colour for the filler caps. I’ve sprayed one horse with the silver to give me a reference point.
The next one I did with Smooth On products. I used Smooth Cast 325 with Silver Bullet dusted into the mould but no other pigmentation. After curing this gave a Mother of Pearl sort of effect.
My third attempt was again using 325 and Silver Bullet but with Smooth On's aluminium power (1 part A, 1 part B and 2 parts aluminium by volume). I would be happy with this result although I may still spray the final cap with clear laquer to give a final gloss.
I’ll make the cap mould over the next couple of days and let you know how I get on.

Mick