Hi Guys, 

When ive had wheels re-trimmed, you generally find the inner bit is a thin ring of steel, a lot of foam, then the outer layer.  Youd likely need to remove the leather, and at least some of the foam so that you can build enough layers that there isnt enough flex from the underlying foam when the wheel is gripped to cause potential areas for the carbon to crack. 

Id think that using a wet lay technique then roll wrapped in shrink tape would be a good way to get an evenish circular finish. The slight ribbing of the tape can be sanded down and then clearcoated to give a deep shine.

You could probably use the technique used for carbon skinning too although there would likely be a lot more sanding to do.

Like I said in my post, I'm a trimmer and have trimmed many steering wheels, What you say is true, the core is metal followed by a rubber/foam moulding. Its not too flexible and may be ok to cover straight over, I am not to sure, hence why I'm asking. 

TBH youd beed to practice on a scrap wheel. Id think one layer is too thin as if driven aggressively there would be quite a big crush force on it.  Id start off with say 3 layers and if it feels super solid, then experiment with 2 layers.

Luckily I have plenty of spare wheels around. 

Hi Steve,

We supply materials to a couple of customers who are doing the same thing. Like you, they specialise in leather re-trimming but have added carbon fibre and other composite materials to their portfolio. It's always a 'skinning process' rather than a traditional moulding process which effectively means you're working without a mould, wrapping carbon around your former, wetting it through with resin then building up additional layers of resin (see something along these lines on the video that accompanies our Carbon Fibre Skinning Starter Kit). If the construction of the wheel allows you to slide a sleeve of carbon fibre over your former (you'd need a fully dismantlable wheel) then you could use carbon fibre braided sleeve - this is great because you would have no seam where the carbon meets itself. If you can't use a sleeve then you'll simply need to wrap the carbon round and then have a neat seam on the inside of the wheel (which would rarely be seen). One technique for getting a nice sharp cut edge on this seam is to spray the fabric in this area with a little hairspray before you cut it, that way, when you do cut it, it won't fray.

Once you'd built-up the resin, allow to cure fully then to some flatting back (without breaking down to the carbon). Trim the edges back either side so you have a nice smooth edge at either end. There's no need to polish it all the way to a fine finish, instead, fully cure the part off at this stage (a bake in an over for 8hrs at 50'C would be good) and then use a 2 pack automotive lacquer and spray the skinned part (you'll want to mask off the rest of the wheel) and then flat and polish the lacquer. The lacquer will give a deep shine and UV protection to the part.

I hope this helps.

All the best, Matt

Matt Statham
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Sales