Placing Logos or Brands on Carbon parts.


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David Vale
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Well I have played around with the water slide Decals and yes they work really well except they are subtle decals, you have to catch them in the right light for them to be clear. You cannot see the water slide either. But they are really akin to a watermark and not a clearly legible decal. I have tried using dry transfers but they somehow don't look too clever as they are quite thick. So thoughts moving on. I have access to a sophisticated laser engraver. so my thoughts are to maybe create some IN2 resin sheets as thin as I can get them if at all possible or maybe the Glass Cast resin as I understand this can go down to 1 mm thick (would like it thinner though). Then cut into the resin surface my decals with the laser and then use a heavy pigment in resin to fill the recesses. After curing cut down the sheets and lightly tack the decals to the mould and then infuse with the hope the decals are now embedded in the CF and Resin. Smaller parts I can most likely laser etch into surface and then use a screen print ink, smooth off and then lacquer.



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David Vale
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I am trying to look at an easy method of applying decals to an aircraft panel. There are lots of them. I did discuss this with Paul the other month but there seems to be no definitive way of doing this. I am currently looking at waterslide and the suggestion was applying this to the mould with a minimum tack before infusion. This could be prone to misalignment in the process. Using. Vinyl stencils seems a problem as the letters need to be small and precise alignment and then will require a silkscreen print to fill the vinyl stencils after removing.
My thoughts are would it be better to create the panel, apply waterslide decals and then use an XCR resin coat to seal them forever in resin. Anyone experience of this and any advice would be appreciated.

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davro
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I am in the process of putting on the final layers of clear coat over the water slide decal.

Not sure about sliding one into the mould as the water slip stuff is on the backing of the paper and you would want the face or the front of the decal to be on the inside of the mould if you get what I'm saying ...

I think you might have trouble slipping of the decal using resin as they are very delicate and susceptible to stretching and deforming the water makes it very slippery and easy to handle and slip into place also the material needs to dry in place else it will be damaged or distorted when applying the laminate. Though you might want to run a few tests with some small decals as I might be completely wrong with my thoughts Smile



David Stevens
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Fasta
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Are these waterslide decals also clear coated on your parts too?

I recently got some waterslide materials but was thinking to try and put this in my laminate first behind the in mould coating. What do you think about that?

Do you think a logo could be slid off the sheet using resin instead of water, then place straight into the mould?





davro (20/05/2017)
I played around with some waterslide inkjet paper and some clear coat to seal the ink, after rmaddock mentioned about water slide.

It's a fun technique for making decals and works really well for transparent decals as white becomes transparent and it looks quite nice with carbon showing through Smile


Prefer the all black look (image is a bit dark)


Just need to put the final clear coats on the scuttle now ...





Edited 8 Years Ago by Fasta
rmaddock
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Nice.
I think you can get two types of transfer paper, like you've got with a transparent base and also one with an opaque base.......I hunk.
davro
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I played around with some waterslide inkjet paper and some clear coat to seal the ink, after rmaddock mentioned about water slide.

It's a fun technique for making decals and works really well for transparent decals as white becomes transparent and it looks quite nice with carbon showing through Smile


Prefer the all black look (image is a bit dark)


Just need to put the final clear coats on the scuttle now ...



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Edited 8 Years Ago by davro
ChrisR
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It depends on the thickness of the sticker, you can get it as thin as 0.05mm thick, I dare you to find a ridge!!
davro
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I clear coated over the top of some stickers for a rc bodyshell once and like Hanaldo said plenty of wet sanding.
Build thread is here http://www.talkcomposites.com/13092/RC-Car-Touring-Body-110-Scale

Also, I really like the way marsh powerhouse fab does his very suttle logo on his carbon bonnets
https://www.instagram.com/p/BRWUAVlAJpL/?taken-by=marshpowerhousefab

I'm planning soon to airbrush on a small design British flag and driver name to my carbon scuttle, and then a few layers of clear coat.

Might give the water slide ink jet method a try as I don't have access to a vinyl printer anymore.



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Edited 8 Years Ago by davro
rmaddock
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What about transfers rather than stickers? They're very thin.
For example https://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/decal-paper-c553/inkjet-water-slide-decals-c562/inkjet-water-slide-decal-paper-p11228

Further to the above.....you might be able to then clear coat over them....but you'd have to experiment. I've had these and sealed them with an acrylic spray varnish.
Edited 8 Years Ago by rmaddock
Hanaldo
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Well most things like that will be done with plenty of wet-sanding to remove that raised edge around the sticker. I'd wager that part has been sprayed 2-3 times. 

However, I've done it before with infusion. If you can work out a way to get the positioning correct (obviously the sticker needs to go into the mould with the surface down, which means you can't stick it in place), then you can put the sticker into the infusion stack and it will just be part of the laminate. This is my preferred method, but it is difficult to make sure the sticker stays where you want it. Nothing worse than going through all that effort only to find your sticker is on an angle when you demould. 
GO

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