Hey,

Well if you are SURE that u went everywhere on your mold with you pva impregnated cloth, pva IS there even if you dont especially notice it. In some areas you could have a thicker layer than on other areas, thats why you may not notice it everywhere. This is especially true with darker mold gelcoat colors. Try to always have a powerfull light above your mold and move your head around your mold, so you can see the pva "wetout" as you apply it.

If you were tempted to redo a second coat of pva before full cure of the first one, you may have removed pva on some spots. 

If my opinion is worth something (:Whistling, lint free rags are maybe not the best way to apply pva. i use soft foam little cylinders and that works great. I think these foam stuff are from paint supplies. They are 3 cm diameter by 3cm long, so I can clearly see what i'm doing rather than have a portion of rag obstructing view. Plus they release the pva in a consistent way. And they last waaay longer than rags.

If you have fish eyes, well, its another story. From my little experience, the only time I had fish eyes was when i did not clean the wax properly, too much excess was left. You could see the "lines" of wax even if it did not feel with the hand.

Also, if your polishing compound is containing silicone, it may mess wax and pva.

Other than that, I dont see why you would have a problem, but more experienced people will certainly tell you.

 



 


    A $1000 electronic device will always protect a 10 cents fuse

Hi,

I second what Joe has said about application method, and how it can somtimes look like it's not coated an area when it has...

There is also a neat little trick that you can do to stop the PVA from beading off or 'fish-eyeing' on a waxed mould surface; just add a little (less that 5%) washing-up liquid too the PVA this lowers it's surface tension and reduces the problem, I have never found it to effect the performance of the release, it does however take a little longer to dry.

Let us know how you get on.

Paul Statham
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical

Muhaha nice little trick !!

 



 


    A $1000 electronic device will always protect a 10 cents fuse

Hi, I found out that PVA would not go with every brand of wax! It took me a while to find the right combination. I got fish eyes especially when I used high temperature resistant wax.

can be for the type of wax?

When I used to use it before easy lease, I thinned it out some with methanol first then water which both seem to work fairly well and sprayed it on with an airbrush. Mist over it several times, careful to not let it pool as it will damage previous coats. As has been said, this stuff can be difficult to see! 

I like the airbrush idea



If Brute Force Isn''''t working your not using enough...

man you have to try everything to see what fits you better , i faced all the above problems and guess what worked with me , a normal brush and sometimes i do 2 layers of pva , after the first is cured , i tried the water adding it didn't work with my pva , i saw many guys using there spray guns to add pva i did and it didn't work with mine until i added alcohol , as for all the above i think everyone was right about solving there problems way .

as for paul trick i think i need to try it too , seems nice and paul is a high expert man

best regards mhd alghoul mhdghoul@hotmail.com youtube channel :atmospherejo link is http://www.youtube.com/user/atmospherejo?ob=0&feature=results_main