Mould Fanges


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Paul M
Paul M
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Not done much on account of my sciatica.Made a start on the flanges,
hot glued a strip of correx around the inside of the tank,then used
filleting wax to smooth the edge,then cut and hot glued the flanges
on,more filleting wax will be used to smooth the joints.Looks dodgy
underneath but as that's not the important part,not to bothered,it does
the job.

http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/6ffbe32d-89c5-4857-afbd-b29d.jpghttp://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/282f9815-7e9a-4e9e-b0df-0d20.jpghttp://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/22f1c1ff-c525-4e39-9858-7ace.jpghttp://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/8a09e141-34d5-4372-a3cd-ac25.jpg
sam
sam
sam
posted 9 Years Ago HOT
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Hi Paul,
I take it you have seen Easy Composites segment at  You Tube on making the bonnet using Carbon Fiber.  It's  helped me  no end.

If you are using PVA as a release agent make sure it does not get on the  flanges that you are making  the tape will not seat properly and yes a leak when you are bagging the whole show,.
All the best trust it works out well.

Sam
from down under
Paul M
Paul M
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Cheers,will get fluted signboard for the top mould,the plastic I used from
old dvd cases was to stiff for the curves of the tank,it worked but was just
to stiff,my fault for not waiting till my mate got me some.
Next is the 2 piece top mould,might do the flanges at about 50 - 55
°.



   Cheers Paul
davro
davro
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Looking good

A little clean up and fix up and she is good to go Smile



David Stevens
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Paul M
Paul M
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Made the mould,thought it would be a pain to release,but no 3 well placed
wedges at the front of the tank and out it popped.Some of the paint came off
but I was expecting that,quick clean up and it looks Ok,the flanges will get a
smooth,there are indents in the flanges,but the are away from the actual piece
that matters,so not to worried,fill them in.Some chips at the front of the tank,luckily
thats where the mounting bracket goes,so fill those in and you would never know.
Could of been better,but I'm happy with it.Always learning.


   Cheers Paulhttp://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/174ca69f-a9db-4614-9fde-6cc7.jpghttp://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/b69769f6-021d-4dab-93cb-59f8.jpghttp://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/75b77d50-6602-46d7-a652-3515.jpg
davro
davro
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Personally I just envelope bag everything nowadays!
The thought of half bagging a mould and allowing for expansion with pleats around the edge just reminds me of all the time I have wasted chasing leaks around, when it would have been far simpler to have just envelope bagged it from the start, the extra cost of the vacuum bag is nothing compared with wasted time and potential re-bagging gum tape ...



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MarkMK
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As Chris alluded to above, it might have been an idea to create a thin-ish lip all the way around with something like signboard and the glue small blocks of foam to it, so providing a surface onto which you could have bonded the main flanges at 90 degrees, with a bit of tape over the angle to save on additional filleting wax.

I'm certain it would have made bagging up more straightforward and the thin lip that was in line with the edge of the part would have given you a little space with the fabric to trim without having to curve it over

What you've created will work, though, just looks a bit tricky to create your pleats etc. at such a vertical angle
Paul M
Paul M
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Thanks for the comments,every bit helps.Wax then release agent it is then.

  
   Cheers Paul
davro
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Looking good, filleting wax then semi release as in easy lease ...



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Edited 9 Years Ago by davro
Dravis
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The filleting wax tends to stick and seal better before the release goes on, in my opinion .. 

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