CF air tank [10 bars]


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ChrisR
ChrisR
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You've actually just highlighted the two main concerns I have with this which may lead to premature failure.

100degC+ environment - did you post cure the tank to higher than this? most off the shelf epoxies have a Tg around or lower than this so you'll loose a lot of strength as the temp rises, even if the epoxy has a Tg higher than this do you really want this component post curing in service? I certainly wouldn't.

vibration - the threaded connections where you've tapped directly into the laminate - a) as already pulled to note by others, this is not an ideal way to fix the sensors/inlets/outlets etc b) I've used/got similar sensors as the ones in your picture so I know they are relatively heavy, shake those suckers around in the back of a car for a while and something is going to give.

I've built a number of cars over the last 20 years and I can pretty much guarantee that although it may work on the bench or for a while on the car, something will give and you can be certain it will happen when you least expect if or really don't want it to happen. The underhood/clam of a car on the road and even worse on the track is a very nasty place and will cause failure of any component not 100% up to the job. The best case senario at failure is a small leak and loss of pressure causing you to limp back to the pits or pull over, the worst case I wouldn't want to imagine the fallout but I know from cars I've worked on, a clam shell does not really offer much protection from a failure from inside the engine bay.

If you want to see what can happen when a pressure chamber fails at temperature, take a look at the mythbusters heater clips https://youtu.be/jbreKn4PoAc?t=2m34s

different materials but you get the general idea.
rapidos
rapidos
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Tongue Chris, as said, this is too strong so it won't. I actually fear to get some leaks as this will be shaked like hell in a 100+ °c environment at the sides of the tank.
I am now starting a second version with inside hermetic plastic tank that I expect to be stronger, lighter and more reliable (semi sphere ends).

Edited 8 Years Ago by rapidos
ChrisR
ChrisR
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Does anyone else feel this chap has just built a bomb for his car! ?Crazy
rapidos
rapidos
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So the part is now finished. I will test it on the road as soon as the weather allow me, and if approved, I will bring it to the track to address the reliability. Some feedback now...

- I decided as a test to glue 3 inserts on one side but not on the other where I just added Teflon tape. No issues on both side.
- The core cylinder is far too strong
- You need to be 2 or 3 people to tow correctly as it was a nightmare alone. Very hard to keep the tension, wet it, and deal with everything going not that well...
- The weack point is the design of the side. I will probably build another one using the rocket technics as my tank could be then 20% lighter
- Need to be tested at the track to address the stress issues, vibrations and heat.
- Final weight saving is 682gr where the optimum should be around 800gr.

Edited 8 Years Ago by rapidos
Dravis
Dravis
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I VERY much doubt that those threads in the CF can hold 10 Bar .. I would certainly glue them in with a good bonding agent at the very least ..

You probably should have bonded in some thread inserts (alu or Stainless) when you did the lay-up --

In any case, the risk of knocking or vibration loosening whatever you screw into those threads will be very high .. NOT a very reliable solution IMHO --

Pressure -testing under water is a brilliant idea --- why didn't I think of that when we did the rockets --Blush

"Sapere Aude"... Dare to KNOW!

The written word is the only truly efficient vehicle for transmitting a complex concept from mind to mind...

103% of all people do not understand statistics...

Do not adjust our mind, theres a fault in reality :-)
Edited 8 Years Ago by Dravis
ajb100
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Threads in carbon don't work very well, it may be worth submerging it under water to pressure test it
rapidos
rapidos
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Thanks Dravis for your good comments.

There is also kevlar on the outside layer, but i decided to finish it with one last layer of CF for the esthetic. (CF airbox and tube in the vincinity)

It does not need to be protected from anything as it is covered by the rear clam directly 1mm above it.
My choice to keep the design as close as possible to the original was guided by the only 10mm left clearance I have in length and 1 mm in high and the need to stick as close as possible to the identical volume. The tank is designed to allow 7 gear change and that occurs in one single second so it can't be smaller.
The tank is closed as you see it. I decided to mount the connections as they are on the original, no flange but just 7 steps screwed in with Teflon tape.

I always tend to follow my feelings. A challenge indeed.
Edited 8 Years Ago by rapidos
Dravis
Dravis
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Yes  -- very nice weight saving there ..

I have a few points though:

1:
I would have used the Kevlar mix cloth on the outside of the tank!!   The purpose of the kevlar IMHO is to prevent cracking of the CF, and stop it from forming sharp shards in case of failure.
It also protects the tank from impact damage from the outside ..

2:
The shape of the tank with sharp corners is not the best way to take advantage of the strength of the CF/Kevlar composite .. If you want the outside to look like the original, but save weight, I would have made the inside "plug" with radiused (Domed) ends .. Then added some foam core to "fill out" the outside radius, to make the more "perfectly cylindrical" outside on the tank ..

Judging from the thickness of the Alu tank, you would still have at least the same internal volume, even with a radiused end.    The sharp "Corners" you have are an obvious weak point, where there will be an outward localised bending force on the corner when the tank is pressurized ..

One more thing .. How do you plan to "close" the tank? -- For the fittings to stay attached at 10+ Bar, they will need to be mounted with a flange from the inside .. !!

Anyway .. Good luck with the project ...

"Sapere Aude"... Dare to KNOW!

The written word is the only truly efficient vehicle for transmitting a complex concept from mind to mind...

103% of all people do not understand statistics...

Do not adjust our mind, theres a fault in reality :-)
Warren (Staff)
Warren (Staff)
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I have moved the thread here as the direction has turned onto your actual cylinder you've made so its more of a project now.


The tank does look to have a nice weight saving.  The proof in the pudding will be leak tight fittings and the pressure testing.

Definitely ensure it is tested professionally so that if it fails there is adequate shielding around the test rig to avoid splinters flying out.

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
rapidos
rapidos
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Great story Smile
The tank is now waiting all the air connectors before air pressure test. I have the feeling it is much stronger than necessary, and the challenge will be faced on connections... will see...


GO

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