Ok, thank you.

Ok, thank you.

I think you've misread that, it's not 2 layers of peel ply but rather the one layer cut into smaller strips. Peel ply is quite tough stuff, so if it's bridging then it can run your part. By cutting it into strips you both make it easier to lay into the mould and allow it to move around more. 

Ok thanks for the replies, that gives me a bit of confidence. 

As above. It's only basic errors that are costing you, so you're not far off. It's a learning curve that everyone goes through. 

you need to ensure that prior to infusing the bag is properly vac'd and there is a bit of excess bag in the corners. I mould make a small tool (spatula) that you can force the material into the corners when pulling a vac.
I would also cut some small strips that go into the 90 degree corner, if you use a sharp scalpel when laying the first ply and place it into the corner with a small strip of material to overlap it this should help a bit. You can do sharp corners but they can be a PITA.
Its much easier to do with prepreg but you would still need to work the material into the corner and then make some UD bootlaces (but thats another story)

But as above leave the inlet pipe open a bit after you have shut the vacuum, the extra resin that gets pulled in will help a lot with the part. I dont think you are far off from a good part, you going to clear coat afterwards?

Ive been there and you are close.

keep the overlap as small as you are comfortable cutting and try using a few strips of peel ply instead of one, the bag always locks onto the flat areas of you part first and so this stops the cf seating,

it won't stop the voids completely but help.

Some of the edge fault would be better if you leave the inlet pipe open longer before clamping it off, let a little more resin in and again it helps.

Hi all,