I would definitely go for Epoxy resins, for this sort of job...  (not just because I hate the stink of polyester)    As an afterthought, I would maybe add some fumed silica filler to the "base coat" if you make it yourself. That will stop it being quite so "runny" and make it easier to "paint on"  I would probably use a roller for something like this.

Epoxy will be just fine, even if exposed to sunlight/UV, if you get it clearcoated with a good 2-component Urethane  (I use 2-comp boat varnish, since I have access to it cheaply, and have my own spray-guns.)

BTW... I got "Sapere Aude" from a very good book called "Reckoning with Risk" by Gerd Gigerenzer... (Penguin books) Well worth a read, I assure you!! and also the inspiration for the second line in my signature 

"Sapere Aude"... Dare to KNOW!

The written word is the only truly efficient vehicle for transmitting a complex concept from mind to mind...

103% of all people do not understand statistics...

Do not adjust our mind, theres a fault in reality :-)

I would be recommending epoxy.  Polyester and Vinylester would need a wax additive to cure solid without a tack. (they cure tacky naturally in air).

I agree that peel ply makes a good grip surface.  And a light dusting of lacquer really does bring out the carbon weave under the peel ply finish yet it is still rough and matt.

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant

Cheers for the tips Dravis, I'll be sure to let you know how it goes. 

If you "just" want to skin the wooden construction in CF/flax/jute, then go for a single layer of 200gsm..  one side at a time
Start off with a thin layer of the black coating /skinning base resin (for the CF), let it cure to a tack, to hold the CF fabric, and wet lay , and cover with peel ply.
Use laminating resin.  You can also just use some black pigment in laminating resin for the first layer, it is just to make a black base for the CF, since a single layer can be a bit transparent/gappy

Wrap it with perforated release film and some old sheets or the like to absorb excess resin.   Leave one side to cure fully, then remove all cover materials around the edge and do the other side.

When it has all cured, remove all cover materials and the peel ply form both sides, sand it down lightly and get a paint shop to clear coat the whole board.

If you want areas of the board to be really grippy, just leave those areas as they are straight from the peel-ply... When they are wet, you will see the CF through the otherwise grey/matte areas, but they will still grip, until they are well worn ...  I use that method on gun-stocks made from CF.. but sometimes apply a very thin clear coat to the rough areas.

"Sapere Aude"... Dare to KNOW!

The written word is the only truly efficient vehicle for transmitting a complex concept from mind to mind...

103% of all people do not understand statistics...

Do not adjust our mind, theres a fault in reality :-)

Aha. Thank you all for your advice. it sounds like I had better stick to laying it up by hand without the vac then. What resin would you recommend in that case? Thinking of just a single layer of 200 gsm carbon all around, although I am tempted by the jute or flax maybe? Sorry to keep inflicting myself upon your wealth of knowledge like this...

We know your board is actually closed. But the fact remains that it most likely won't survive the pressure/vacuum. If there is only one small crack or hole you will suck lots of infusion resin inside. And such a crack has to be expected once you bag it and put it under vacuum.

Ok, now I'm confused. Perhaps I didn't explain fully that the previous picture was just to show what the board looks like structurally on the inside. I don't actually have a photo of what it looks like now, but here is a shot of it with the deck skin on. It basically looks like a giant solid wooden surfboard.  What I had in mind was doing something like they've done in this video:

I do think you will struggle trying to pull a full vacuum on that.  Even wetlay vacuum bagging would likely cause the sagging issue between ribs.

You would need to do a wet lay up and just be very careful with your resin usage and consolidation.  As said, peel ply can help soak up some excess resin.

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant

Seeing the picture, if you were to wrap it and vac you would probably end up with an undulating surface between the spars/ribs