Resin infusion results


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ats101
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Hi,
I am new to this forum and to making carbon fibre. It sounded like an amazing hobby/project from looking at the easy composites video. As a big car guy (I bet you never heard that before) my aim is to make a BMW M3 carbon fibre bonnet by resin infusion technique.

I got the resin infusion kit as well as the uni-mould kit.

So far I made an under panel that replaces its steel counterpart and also a carbon fibre mirror cap. The results were sub-optimal which got me a little disheartened to say the least. I found the process difficult.

I have a few questions, I will ask them in the most organised way that I can. 

1)  Is it possible the clean the paint brush used to apply the gel-coat? I have had to throw mine away but would rather clean them and save on cost. 

2) When the infusion resin is introduced into the vacuum, how long after you see resin being sucked up into the waste-pot hose, should you clamp the resin line  What happens if you leave the pump running on too long? 

3) Is there any tools/equipment that allows one to locate an air leak? 

4) For each of my projects, I used 1 layer of wax on the on the mould which gave me some issues when it came time to release. What is the best combination to help releasing end product and mould?



Thanks.
Hanaldo
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ats101 - 7/10/2020 10:40:13 AM
Hi,
I am new to this forum and to making carbon fibre. It sounded like an amazing hobby/project from looking at the easy composites video. As a big car guy (I bet you never heard that before) my aim is to make a BMW M3 carbon fibre bonnet by resin infusion technique.

I got the resin infusion kit as well as the uni-mould kit.

So far I made an under panel that replaces its steel counterpart and also a carbon fibre mirror cap. The results were sub-optimal which got me a little disheartened to say the least. I found the process difficult.

I have a few questions, I will ask them in the most organised way that I can. 

1)  Is it possible the clean the paint brush used to apply the gel-coat? I have had to throw mine away but would rather clean them and save on cost. 

2) When the infusion resin is introduced into the vacuum, how long after you see resin being sucked up into the waste-pot hose, should you clamp the resin line  What happens if you leave the pump running on too long? 

3) Is there any tools/equipment that allows one to locate an air leak? 

4) For each of my projects, I used 1 layer of wax on the on the mould which gave me some issues when it came time to release. What is the best combination to help releasing end product and mould?



Thanks.


1. Yes it is possible, but consider that acetone costs money too. I prefer to just use the cheapest brushes I can find and bin them, you don't save much money in cleaning paint brushes, and there is a good chance that the acetone dissolves some of the glue holding the bristles in and then the next time you use it you have them falling out everywhere.

2. Depends what the rest of the infusion is doing. I like to clamp the vacuum line as soon as the entire stack is fully infused, and then clamp the resin feed line soon after. So if some areas are lagging, you may get resin being evacuated out the vacuum port (this is why a brake zone is a good idea). If you have a brake zone, then your stack will likely fully infuse before the resin ever reaches the vacuum port, and this is ideal.

3. Kind of. You can buy ultrasonic leak detectors and digital absolute pressure gauges. They are not necessary, and I wouldn't at all recommend them for a hobbiest.

4. 1 layer of wax is nowhere near enough. Most release waxes need a minimum of 6-8 coats, with half an hour between each coat. Chemical release agents are better, but you still need to apply 6-8 coats the first time you use a mould.

ats101
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Thanks for answering the questions. 
MarkMK
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Just to add to point 1, if you're using EC's GC50 for your in-mould coating, you'll get much better cosmetic results from spraying it into the mould. Applying by brush is likely to leave cured ridge lines and brush marks that''ll likely distort to the clarity of the cured part, as the fabric won't be able to lay flat against the coating when infused

If this isn't a practical option for you, then you might get better results from leaving out the in-mould coating and looking to have a post-production clear coating applied, especially as and when you progress onto bigger items like bonnets etc.

Stick with it, as there's always a learning curve to navigate and you'll eventually get your techniques nailed down


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