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Hanaldo
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Group: Forum Members
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Check the data sheet of your epoxy. If its mixed viscosity at 25C is above 500cps then I wouldn't use it. 500 is thick for infusion but will work for small parts. Under 300cps is ideal.
Don't worry about the resin flow, on a small simple part like this it isn't going to be a concern. Flow issues tend to be associated with complex geometry and larger parts where your pot life may be on the edge. Realistically, you can just mix up a bit extra resin and allow some to flow into your catch pot until everything has wet out. Worst case, a brake zone will ensure you aren't wasting too much resin.
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quinn
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Group: Forum Members
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+xAre you wet laying or infusing. Wet lay would be slightly trickier, as you'll fray the carbon when you wet it out. But infusion is dead easy with the use of a spray tack. The consumables aren't as much of a concern because you dont need them to look nice and neat, so you can just make sure there is plenty of excess and if necessary poke it around with a ruler or some other long utensil. When you pull a partial vacuum you can make sure everything is properly in place before pulling full vac. I've made plenty of similar parts where the opening is too small to fit your hands in, it's not too hard. I actually haven't decided for sure on wet lay vs infusion but it sounds like I should just do infusion since it can potentially make a lighter part as well as a few other advantages like taking all the time I need to get things placed properly. Don't really have fully commit until you start sucking the resin in, so I do like that aspect of it. I'm just not fully confident yet on placement of flow media to get the resin to travel to the harder to reach places before reaching the vac line. I'll have to see if I can find some videos of similar parts being set up for infusion so I can get a better idea. I've noticed they sell infusion specific resin. Is that necessary? The epoxy I have is the thin type from composite envisions. Pretty runny stuff so I would think it should work fine?
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Hanaldo
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 2.5K,
Visits: 28K
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Are you wet laying or infusing. Wet lay would be slightly trickier, as you'll fray the carbon when you wet it out. But infusion is dead easy with the use of a spray tack.
The consumables aren't as much of a concern because you dont need them to look nice and neat, so you can just make sure there is plenty of excess and if necessary poke it around with a ruler or some other long utensil. When you pull a partial vacuum you can make sure everything is properly in place before pulling full vac.
I've made plenty of similar parts where the opening is too small to fit your hands in, it's not too hard.
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quinn
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Group: Forum Members
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+xI'm with Oekmont - joining two separate halves isn't ideal. I dont see why this cant be laid up as one piece, but perhaps I'm missing something from the pictures. You are infusing it correct? So if youre worried about the opening being too tight to fit your hands in to layup, just lay up each half separately before bolting the mould together? It can be fiddly but it's far from hard. I'll try doing it all at once. It's only about 10 bucks worth of fabric for each try so no big deal if it doesn't work out first try. To me it just seems like it's gonna be difficult to get the fabric cut and placed nicely at the seam without it getting frayed and distorted. also I'm trying to imagine how to get the peel ply, breather, bag, etc. all nicely in place inside the somewhat confined space without distorting the seam of the fabric. Maybe not as hard as I'm picturing, just have to see how it goes
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Hanaldo
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 2.5K,
Visits: 28K
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I'm with Oekmont - joining two separate halves isn't ideal. I dont see why this cant be laid up as one piece, but perhaps I'm missing something from the pictures. You are infusing it correct? So if youre worried about the opening being too tight to fit your hands in to layup, just lay up each half separately before bolting the mould together? It can be fiddly but it's far from hard.
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quinn
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 155,
Visits: 992
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Here's an example of a 3d style flight if you guys are curious. One of my flights that I recorded. Sorry for the crappy quality, it was a phone strapped to my head  https://youtu.be/1eCf6MCemDM
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quinn
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 155,
Visits: 992
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+x+x+x+x+xI would advice against joining two parts. This is much harder than just make a one piece part. and if you are looking for the last grams, this is the best way to regain them. And it would not be easier. Btw, talking about the last grams: I always asked myself why nobody saves the whole canopie. I guess aesthetics :-) And probably also aerodynamics. Something that light will be easily affected by air currents. Mostly orientation. Not sure if you guys are familiar with 3d flying, but without a canopy it's much easier to lose orientation of the model and crash. I do fly without a canopy sometimes, but yeah, orientation as well as aesthetics. With speed flying, definitely aerodynamics. These helis can break 200mph. Mine is setup for 3d but will still easily break 120mph Easier to see? Yeah, specifically what direction it's facing. With 3d flight there's a lot of flipping, rolling, piroetting. With just the frame in the air it can become hard to tell if it facing towards you, away, etc. It just becomes a black silhouette. The canopy gives it a more defined shape that looks different in different orientations.
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Steve Broad
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 408,
Visits: 4.1K
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+x+x+x+xI would advice against joining two parts. This is much harder than just make a one piece part. and if you are looking for the last grams, this is the best way to regain them. And it would not be easier. Btw, talking about the last grams: I always asked myself why nobody saves the whole canopie. I guess aesthetics :-) And probably also aerodynamics. Something that light will be easily affected by air currents. Mostly orientation. Not sure if you guys are familiar with 3d flying, but without a canopy it's much easier to lose orientation of the model and crash. I do fly without a canopy sometimes, but yeah, orientation as well as aesthetics. With speed flying, definitely aerodynamics. These helis can break 200mph. Mine is setup for 3d but will still easily break 120mph Easier to see?
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quinn
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 155,
Visits: 992
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+x+x+xI would advice against joining two parts. This is much harder than just make a one piece part. and if you are looking for the last grams, this is the best way to regain them. And it would not be easier. Btw, talking about the last grams: I always asked myself why nobody saves the whole canopie. I guess aesthetics :-) And probably also aerodynamics. Something that light will be easily affected by air currents. Mostly orientation. Not sure if you guys are familiar with 3d flying, but without a canopy it's much easier to lose orientation of the model and crash. I do fly without a canopy sometimes, but yeah, orientation as well as aesthetics. With speed flying, definitely aerodynamics. These helis can break 200mph. Mine is setup for 3d but will still easily break 120mph
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Steve Broad
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 408,
Visits: 4.1K
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+xI would advice against joining two parts. This is much harder than just make a one piece part. and if you are looking for the last grams, this is the best way to regain them. And it would not be easier. Btw, talking about the last grams: I always asked myself why nobody saves the whole canopie. I guess aesthetics :-) And probably also aerodynamics. Something that light will be easily affected by air currents. Besides, you need somewhere to put your logos :-)
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