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Becky (Staff) - 4/18/2018 10:04:17 AM

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SamJ - 4/17/2018 8:51:35 PM

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Becky (Staff) - 4/11/2018 9:18:10 AM

This is the new DIY resin river table tutorial and eBook from our casting series. In this video we demonstrate how to produce your own bespoke waterfall resin river coffee table, using GlassCast® 50 epoxy resin with comprehensive instructions that can be adapted to produce your own design.

The guide takes you through the entire process including all the information you could ever need for making your own live-edge river table, including planning, pouring, finishing and caring for your table including:

• Choosing the Wood
• Tools, Materials & Workshop Conditions 
• Preparing and Stabilising the Wood 
• Setting up the Resin Barriers
• Pouing a Base Layer & Applying a Sealing Coat 
• The Main Resin Pour/s
• Finishing the Surface 
• Cutting and Bonding the Sides
• Sealing and Finishing the Wood & Polishing the Resin
• After Care

The techniques and practices demonstrated and detailed in the tutorial and eBook can be adapted for all sorts of projects and the GlassCast® 50 is specially formulated for deep clear castings - making it perfect for projects like river tables.  It is also perfect for encapsulations, sculptures, clear castings and wood & resin combination furniture.  
*Project time is variable - dependent upon number of pours required

Here's the video tutorial demonstrating how to make your own live-edge resin river waterfall table:


You can also download the accompanying eBook available free of charge - How to make a Resin River Table Handbook
If you have any questions on the processes demonstrated or the materials used please post them and we'll be happy to answer them.

Becky Hinton
Easy Composites

Hi Becky,
thanks for providing the ebook on this - the video is great, but the ebook adds some really useful detail.
I have 2 questions regarding the pouring stages and curing:
I understand the base layer pour and sealing stage, and letting this get to the B-stage before main resin pour layer 1. However when the time comes to pour layer 2, it's going to be meeting the fully cured coated edge of the wood (from the initial sealing stage) - does this matter? i.e. is no keying of this edge necessary?

My second question relates to the depth of the base layer pour. My wood is slightly warped to the point at which one end sits 6mm off the base board. Would it be best to stick to a 2mm base layer pour and subsequent main pours as per your instructions, or can I make the base layer pour much deeper so that the void between the underside of my plank and the base is completely filled?

Thanks for any advice you can give,
Sam.

Hi Sam,

The sealing layer is a very thin brushed on layer of resin which is designed to seal the surface of the wood and help minimise the risk of air bubbles coming out of the wood into the resin during the cure.  The waney-edge of the wood will also provide the resin with a great surface to attach to and create a strong bond so no keying should be required. The only time this would be recommended would be if the sealing layer was particularly thick or your wood had very straight edges (rather than a waney-edge).

The depth of the base layer can be poured as deep as you require (up to the maximum pouring depth), this resin is suitable for embedding and encapsulating so there won't be a problem with pouring to fill the void in the base layer.  Just be aware that the wood will sink and push the resin up around the wood.

Don't hesitate to let us know if you have any further questions and we'd love to see some images of your finished piece!
 
Becky Hinton
Easy Composites